The Feros Fruit Shop
(54 Magellan)
Peter George Feros (Pikouli) had been
doing a good trade here, mainly fruit but with a milk bar sideline, since
1946 when he came up from Ballina to go into partnership with his cousin,
Jack Jim Feros. Jack, a Lismore resident since 1919 and an old hand in the
fruit retailing and wholesaling business, retired to Byron Bay in 1951
following the death of his wife Vasiliki (nee Samios, sister of the Samios
Bros earlier of Mullumbimby and Bangalow). (Jack subsequently came down
with Parkinson's disease, the catalyst for his eccentric brother George
to start his obsessive fund raising activities to establish nursing/aged care
facilities at the Bay. By the time of Jack's death in 1969 George's
campaign to turn the dream into reality was well-advanced.)
Meanwhile Peter, and by then his wife, Helen, nee Prineas, and sons George
and Phillip, set about reversing the fruit/milkbar priority. Peter had landed in 1939 to join his
brother Mick who had been trading as Feros Bros at Ballina since 1923,
initially with Nick Jim Feros and later with Nick’s nephew, Peter Emmanuel Miliotis. Helen’s arrival at Mascot in 1947, a month after her sons’
arrival at Fremantle by ship, was immortalised with a photo in the Sydney
Morning Herald and a story on the rebranded species named ‘New
Australians’. Their story is one shared by many trying to escape Kythera
post war. Peter had sent money across to secure passage but they only got
as far as Port Said before finding that the massive demand on shipping by
the huge number of refugees escaping Europe meant a 6mths wait for a
berth. In the meantime they were stuck in an hotel, which quickly drained
resources requiring Peter to take out a loan and negotiate a complicated
transfer. George and Phillip eventually got a troop carrier to Fremantle,
from where a frantic Peter displayed great initiative in tracking them
down and organising their air passage to Lismore.
His son George was ready to fly the coop
by 1959 and was installed in Denny Panaretto’s old shop just down the
street, while Phillip had to bide his time until 1971 before being handed
the reins of the family business. Like Harry Crethar, he had been
assessing the changing nature of Lismore catering for some time and had
his own ideas on the direction of the business, the focus of which he
promptly changed, adding delicatessen items and the like and,
appropriately enough, renaming the joint ‘The Feros Deli.’ He
subsequently established ‘Feros Summerland Tropical Fruit Salad’ in
a shop in Ewing Street, which turned out to be so successful that he sold
the Deli to the Spartan, Leo Vlahos, in 1978 to concentrate on marketing
this new taste sensation. He waved goodbye to Lismore in 1985 and nowadays
usually can be found on his fishing boat somewhere off Brisbane.
Magellan Street 1949
Feros
Fruit Mart second shop after curved roof over Nesbitt Lane.
(Courtesy
Drew Collection) |
In the meantime Lismore’s fickle tastes had
continued to evolve, forcing Leo Vlahos, the consort of Marli
Petrellis of Mullumbimby, to reorientate the business towards fast food,
the place re-emerging as ‘Leo’s Take Away.’ He moved to Casino in
the late 80s, after which a succession of Greek proprietors from South
Australia had a go, including the final stayers, Theo and Sofia Tertipis,
originally of Kalamata, who took over in 1991 and have worked 9AM to 8PM,
7 days a week, ever since. They are now the only Greeks left in Lismore’s
very competitive café game after Spiro Perdecaris recently gave up on
Cappuccinos in Molesworth, established by that new Lismore entrepreneur,
Peter Coronakes, in partnership with his sister Maria Crethar, none other
than the love of our Harry’s life, in 1989.
While the deterioration in the passing
trade appears to have stabilized, Sophia’s toasted sandwiches, long
recognized as the best in Lismore, had always retained a loyal following.
Fast food remains the anchor of the business, but Sophia’s finesse is
reflected in the subtle name change to ‘Leo’s Food Bar’, under
which name it continues to trade.
You can now enjoy your food al fresco
on the seating in the pedestrian mall, which a kind council has recently
created out of Magellan Street. While not yet rescuing Lismore from the
doldrums this relaxing street landscaping is pointing towards a new
paradigm for the CBD.
After much discussion the adjudicators
have awarded a 7 for alertness to changing trends.
Back to the present, Harry now comes to
Carrington Street, which leads into a maze of lanes in the interior of the
block. He doesn’t turn in however, merely waving to his soccer team-mate,
Peter Dendrinos, packing bananas fresh from the ripening sheds, and to
Nellie Robertson across the road at ‘Keys Milk Bar’ making one of
her magic milkshakes. Her masterpieces are distinctly different to any
other offerings around town and the competing milk bars, let alone the
satisfied customers, can never figure out why. Like ‘The Mecca Pie’ and
later ‘The Crethar Hamburger’, and the word unduplicatability, they had
that inexplicable y factor.
Nellie Robertson (nee Keys)
Proprietor Keys Milkbar
Magellan St., 1931 to 1961 |
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Carrington Enterprises
The banana ripening rooms business was
established by the Ithacan Spiro Dendrinos in 1945 after selling out of
the Capitol café partnership. A couple of years later he was joined by
Eric and Jim Cassis (Cassianos), ex-Ithacan banana growers of Billinudgel,
followed by Eric’s son-in-law, Leo Manias, in 1949. In 1952 Spiro’s
cousin, Peter Dendrinos, joined the team by acquiring Leo’s shares and
together the four partners ran the business through to 1969 when they went
their separate ways. By this time the moribund banana game was way beyond
recovery. (And again demonstrating the interconnectedness of the Greek
community, Leo’s daughter, Pandora, married Andrew Caponas, the son of the
entrepreneurial Archie of Mullumbimby, while his sister-in-law, Zeta
Cassis, crowned Miss Floral Queen in the Lismore’s first Floral Carnival
in 1954, married Jack Stathis.)
The interior of the block was also the
ex-home of the famous Fardouly ice works, which at this time is the cold
storage warehouse for the Terakes fruit and
veggie wholesale enterprise. When Theo fired up those compressors the
cacophony could be heard in Hades, with all surrounding buildings dancing
to the music along with the residents’ fillings. (Another thunderous noise
heard all over town occurred in Feb1954 when the gas-filled ripening rooms
exploded, blowing most of the roof off and buckling the brick walls, and
leaving Jim Cassis in hospital to lick his wounds.)
The longest serving shop-keeper of
Carrington was Jim Crethar, the eldest son of Nick and Florrie (nee
Panaretto) of Casino, who recently retired after a marathon 50yrs at the
helm of the Lismore Sports Store, but remains the longest serving treasurer and board member at The Worker’s Club.
(And in 2008 was awarded the OAM for
his contribution to youth, service and progress organisations.)
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Caravan Cafe 1950
Sited at the South West corner of
Carrington and Magellan 1947 - 54
The power came from the Terania Shire building.
(Courtesy Meg Shields via Syd Drew) |
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The Mecca Café
(80 Magellan)
The Mecca was re-established on this site
in mid1933 by James Forrester and Cliff Gray, son of Walter
Gray, one of the long-serving Lismore café proprietors and a caterer of
some renown. Walter’s rise to the top started in 1924 when he acquired the
posh business of Alderman Smith, himself a caterer of 28yrs standing, and
shortly afterwards moved north on Molesworth to establish the even more
posh Elite Café, which placed him on a footing with Theo Fardouly at the
nearby Olympia. They were friendly rivals, with Walter serving as
long-time secretary of the ‘Northern Rivers Retail Refreshment
Room Employers’ Association’, formed by Theo in mid 1924 as a result
of new awards for restaurant employees, which, in addition to the increase
in the standard rate for the ordinary 48hr working week, granted
considerable increases for overtime and the banning of junior labour.
Alas, their efforts to persuade the Industrial Court that they had the
right to work their employees to death fell on deaf ears and thereafter
the ‘help wanted’ adverts for café staff dried up. (Even so, the cafes
remained the biggest employers of underpaid females, who were also the
most sort-after employees amongst the pubs and boarding houses in the
region.) This was at a time when customers were beginning to tighten their
belts following the first major collapse of the banana industry and the
rapidly decreasing returns from dairying. The café proprietors now were
compelled to pay a minimum male wage of £2/6/6 per week, but coupled with
more opportunists entering the game to try and earn a quid in the
dwindling job market, (‘buying a job’), they couldn’t pass on the costs.
This increasing competition, albeit with a high café turnover and failure
rate, resulted in the standard three-course meal remaining at 1/6d for the
next 20yrs.
The nett result for Theo and Walter was
the closing of their large elaborate dining rooms, shedding their large
attendant staffs, and concentrating on delivering simpler fare from their
street level outlets, although Theo by this time had sublet to his
koumbaro, Archie Gavrily. Nevertheless, both cafes were on the market when
the Vlismas Bros rolled into town in 1929 looking for an opportunity. It
was a laid down misere in their choice of Walter’s concern, Theo’s being
stuck with 1911 era stuff, including the original
automatic carbonator.
Theo then threw in the towel, his place becoming home to Lang’s Shoe Shop.
Walter went into property
development/speculation, one of his Magellan investments in 1930 being
silent partnership with the master pastry chef, James Forrester, in
Forrester’s Cafe in the
brand new ‘Frith Building’, later redubbed the ‘Karavas
Building’ upon purchase by Nick Crones. Shortly afterwards son
Cliff Gray took a more hands-on position with James and 3yrs
years later the new partnership moved a few doors down, at which time
Cliff left the day-to-day management to James (aka Tommy) who went
on to develop the famous Mecca Pie, the staple for most Lismoreiots for
many years. To this day the recipe remains a closely guarded family
secret. (But a secret revealed: Unknown to the customers, the fish and
chips on the menu were cooked-up a couple of doors down by Denny Panaretto.)
Mecca 1937. L to R: Unknown,
Ruby Phillips, Chris Robertson,
Anne Stevens |
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Mecca 1941. L to R: Glady
Virtue, Daphne Myers, Shiela Speers,
Chris Robertson, Dora Davidson |
In 1937 Cliff and James started
their upgrade, along with most other cafes in the region, including the
on-going fine-tuning of their major Greek competitors in Molesworth. But
where Angelo Crethar had gone rearwards, Cliff and James emulated the
Capitol and subsequently went sideways by acquiring the shop next door, knocking down
the wall and creating a wonderful airy space in the art moderne
style. It was a courageous decision considering street frontage values,
most Greeks opting for the long narrow look for this very reason, but paid
dividends in popularity and longevity as Angelo’s style went out of vogue.
Like Angelo, they also built on top, although choosing to turn the space
into flats. James retired in 1947 leaving Cliff to oversee progressive
upgrades.
And there it still is today, the
centre-piece of the new Magellan makeover, with outdoor eating and coffee
sipping giving the
street a cosmopolitan ambience, and retaining a little of that earlier
period of elegant café architecture and leisurely dining, earning a 9
rating for lasting quality service.
Mecca
Café
~1965
By this time the Mecca
had displaced the Greeks from the top of the food chain, becoming the most modern, and arguably the most
popular, café in Lismore.
(Courtesy
Cliff Gray via Sid Drew) |
And what did Harry learn? With two bob in
his pocket he could never hope to duplicate the space, but noted the
importance of having a house speciality, and thus his mind began to shape
the Crethar Hamburger.
His next port of call is Denny Panaretto’s
old shop, now in the hands of Theo Tzortzopoulos (Poulos).
Denny’s Sea Food Cafe
(88 Magellan)
Denny Victor Panaretto, seeing a niche not
filled by anyone else in Magellan, relocated his successful fish ‘n’ chips
formula and well-known brand name, ‘Dennys’, from Keen Street to this new
location in 1936, eventually achieving a 7 in the fast food category. He
lived upstairs, later sharing with his café helpers, his sister and
brother-in-law, Calypso and Peter Christianos, until they moved across to
South Lismore to open a shop in the late 30s, although there’s a suspicion
they took over the management at Magellan in the early 40s while Denny
tried a short-lived venture at Murwillumbah with ‘Denny’s Deli.’
Denny, first born of the entrepreneurial
Victor of Moree, heir to the Panaretto millions, a lively bloke,
fancy-footed dancer, snappy dresser and paid up member of the horse racing
fraternity, was finally persuaded out of bachelorhood in 1944 when he
married Alice Peter Coroneo of Perth. Together they ran Dennys until ~1952
when they passed the shop to Theo Poulos and took over the troubled Christiano
café in South Lismore, evolving the place into a 'corner store' and
remaining into the early 1970s before retiring
to Perth.
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Lismore Civic Hall 1967
L to R attending the party of the year: Victor Panaretto, Denny
Panaretto, unknown, Nitsa Coroneo of Perth,
Mrs Alice Denny Panaretto, unknown.
Jim Crethar in profile behind Victor.
(Courtesy Harry Crethar) |
An intermittent assistant and partner over
the years was his brother Jack, the first of the Panarettos into Lismore
in the early 20s. He worked on and off for Angelo Crethar for many years
and is believed to have been with Angelo when he opened a café in Keen
Street in the late 20s, passing it to Denny around 1930. Sometime in the
mid 30s he took over the Tudor Cafe, possibly in silent partnership with
Nick Crones and the backing of Denny. He apparently was still trading
there when he enlisted for WW2 service, but after duty in New Guinea was
on a disability pension, spending time working in almost every Greek shop
in town collecting money to support his favourite charities, the bookies
at the race course and the dealers at the card tables, until moving to
Casino to live with his brother Paul in the mid 60s, cashing in his chips
a few years later.
In the meantime, Theo Poulos, believed to
have come to town from Nyngan around 1940, served WW2 then worked around
various cafes, mainly with Angelo Crethar, until relieving Denny. He
carried on the successful fast food formula, scrupulously banking the
profits at the Sargent and Coronakes wagering societies, until 1959 when
he passed his customer list to George Peter Feros and disappeared
somewhere. George renamed the place Summerland Sea Foods and
catered to the fish ‘n’ chips connoisseurs for 11yrs until the mere sight
of another potato caused him to curl into the foetal position, prompting
him to pass the peeler to an Anglo-Australian proprietor, who lasted a
couple of years before presenting the shop to a kitchen implement
retailer.
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Lismore 1967
L to R featuring at the same party:
Mrs Frosso Eric Crethar (Harry's mum),
Harry Crethar and his lovely bride
Maria Coronakes,
Mrs Margaret George Feros, George Peter Feros, Mrs Helen Peter Feros
(nee Prineas), Peter George Feros.
(Courtesy Harry Crethar) |
Nevertheless, Harry already had absorbed
the low overheads and staff requirements of the simplicity rule, and
pressed on towards Nick Crones’ old shop, the original site of the Mecca.
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The New City Milk Bar
(92 Magellan)
Upon landing in 1923, 18yr old Nick Angelo
Crones, the first cousin of the numerous Coroneos running around the
Richmond district, went to Ballina to work for his fellow
Karavitiko, probable
schoolmate and other first cousin, Angelo Crethar. He followed Angelo to
Lismore shortly afterwards and over the next 30yrs was variously his
employee, manager, partner, associate and fellow property investor.
He had seen a niche for a second Magellan
milk bar in 1947 and re-established a catering outlet on the old Mecca
site, shortly afterwards acquiring the whole three-storey edifice and
rechristening it the ‘Karavas Building’. His shop front however,
was baptised with a more comprehensible name, the New City, so anointed to
commemorate the declaration of Lismore as a city in Sep1946 (retaining
the ironic motto:
"He who does not advance
retrogresses”.)
Nick died in 1953 and his wife, Matina (nee Sophios), who had come to
Lismore in 1937 and almost immediately caused him to go weak at the knees,
then took the family to Sydney, leaving her cousin, Themistokles (aka Sam)
John Fardouly, to keep the place ticking over until it was sold to an
Anglo-Australian proprietor.
[Matina was another of those who had
suffered tragic loss through Herr Hitler’s rush of blood to the head.
Starvation and malnutrition were widespread in Greece by the winter of
1942 and her father and two sisters were amongst those many who died. Post
war estimates put the death toll, through starvation, malnutrition and
disease alone, at 450,000.]
The Australian proprietor surrendered in
1957, handing the place to Emmanuel Cassianos, an ex-banana grower of
Mullumbimby, the brother of the Carrington Cassis and the brother-in-law
of Patra Kery Bavea. Manuel capitulated to a clothing retailer in 1963
and spent a couple of years working at the Vogue before Sydney beckoned. The New City site has
since undergone many makeovers, but never again as a café.
Although unable to match the milkshake, it
was on a par with Nellie’s, perhaps a little more spacious and with the
location advantage of being on the inside of the block and attracting more
passing trade. An equal 7.
Harry now continues to the corner of Keen
Street and sees before him the High School, with 1000 delinquents creating
mayhem in the grounds, and his brain cells start firing. ‘Markets’ is the
thought that pops into his head, and the slogan ‘Location, Location,
Location’ (which he subsequently gave away free to the real estate agents,
very odd behaviour for a Greek.) So with heart thumping he quickens his
pace and advances along Keen to the site of the old Monterey, one of the
smaller old-style cafes that covered all bases, from the traditional
three-course meal to retailing lollies and cigars.
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