HISTORY OF THE VILLAGE OF CHEPSTOW AND VICINITY By Oliver F. Coumans 1937 PREFACE To
preserve the hitherto unwritten but oft-told folklore of the pioneers in
the picturesque little village of Chepstow, makes the writing of this
history of our village a task of pleasure. INDIAN TERRITORY Back in the early part of the 19th century, this section of what was then referred to as Indian Territory, was entirely under the control of the Iroquois Indians. Naturally, it was not very stable control, as warring Indians were continually striving for its ownership. The Ojibways, who live to the north around the Sault, had clashed with the Iroquois several times on their way out to Quebec to sell the furs they had trapped. Ultimately this led to battle, one section of which was fiercely fought at the mouth of the Saugeen River and resulted in the triumph of the Ojibways. Then in 1836 the Treaty of Manitowaning was signed, and this Indian Territory became Crown Lands, commonly called the “Queen’s Bush.” This, then, was the picture a little over a century ago -- no white men -- no cultivation -- just a virgin bush country, sparsely settled by Indians who trapped and fished in its hills and streams. No doubt they found good trapping up the Yokassippi River, later known as the Mud River and now as our own Teeswater River. In tending these trap lines the Indians must have frequently passed the present site of our Village, little dreaming what change less than a century would make. CROWN LANDS
Rapidly the status of these lands changed from Indian to Crown Lands, and
as such were available for settlement and improvement. Immigration to
Upper Canada, now the Province of Ontario, increased tremendously,
especially from 1847 on, necessitating the opening of new lands. At this
time the control of these lands was handled from Quebec City, and in 1848
the Honorable D.B. Papineau of Quebec ordered a survey to be made, by
Surveyor A. P. Brough, of what is now known as the Durham Road, which led
to the first white settlement in the Township of Greenock, near Riversdale,
in 1849. It was not until 1852 that the rest of the Township was surveyed
by Surveyor R. Walsh, whose party were the first white people to pass
through our Village site. FOUNDING OF CHEPSTOW In the Spring of 1852, after
settlers had come in on the surveyed land at Riversdale, the call of the
wild had come to John Phelan, his wife Bridget, daughter Mary, and his
elder brother Dennis. These, the first settlers in our Village, possessed
intrepid courage and unbounding hospitality and their names are indelibly
linked with those precarious early days. They came in along the Durham
Road to Riversdale, where they engaged a gentleman named McDonald to take
them down the Yokassippi River in a large canoe hollowed out of a pine
log. Leaving early on a bright, May morning, the 17th of the
month, they left behind them the fringe of civilization to wind their way
down the river through a land of primeval forest and jungle-like swamp on
which, excepting the surveyor’s, no white man’s eyes had ever gazed. At
dusk we find them at a spot some 500 feet west of the present North Line
bridge, a spot no different from what they had been gazing all day, but
with the shadows of darkness spreading, they decided to disembark. Here,
under the sheltering branches of a huge hemlock tree, they spent their
first night. In the morning they found a rude bark shanty that the
surveyors had used, and this became their home until they had their log
house built. This house, torn down in 1875, stood back from the north bank
of the river, 500 feet west of the present north line road. John Phelan’s
mother died in this house and lies buried in Chepstow. They squatted on
Lots five and six in the 6th Concession and Lots six and seven
in the 7th Concession, until they purchased them from the Crown
on September 27th, 1854. EARLY EXPERIENCES Try to visualize the task of clearing a
land completely covered with heavy timber. There was none of the present
stump pulling equipment, nor stumping powder available at that time, but
these settlers had the necessary stamina to carry on. Apart from this,
obstacles toward a comfortable living seemed insurmountable. There were no
roads, no markets to create a purchasing power for themselves, no schools,
no means of livelihood without an unceasing effort to create. And yet,
from this crucible of scarcity and want, evolved a class of men and women
with great creative genius, initiative and efficient management. It is
these enduring qualities, which could only come from their successful
battle against privation, that we inherit from them a heritage we treasure
with greater respect than even the material gains they achieved for us. SAW MILLS
It was quite a sight for the Villagers to gather in those early days to
see Cargill’s logs floated down the River over Phelan’s dam, on their way
to the mill at Cargill. FIRST POSTOFFICE In 1858 Phelan’s Postoffice [sic] was opened and Mr. William Hennessey was the first postmaster. It was situated near Massel’s store, mail being received once a week. A petition was sent to the Postoffice [sic] Department to call the postoffice “Emmet,” after the great Irish patriot, but this request was not granted; instead it was named after Chepstow, a charming English town located on the River Wye in Gloucester, England, at the head of the Bristol Channel. EARLY DAYS IN THE VILLAGE SOUTHERLY FROM THE S. W. CORNER Back in the 60’s and 70’s our village
had not the trim appearance of to-day. Log buildings and sheds with stumps
up to the doors predominated, but they were sufficient to the times. The
road was much narrower than now and full of deep ruts. WESTERLY FROM THE SOUTHWEST CORNER Going west from the log stable at the corner, which, by the way, was used as a shoe shop by Clifford, we find Hennessey’s blacksmith shop, later purchased by the present ownder [sic], Mr. Joseph Massell, who came in 1882. Adjoining was Hennessey’s log barn, then came Mosach’s wagon shop, now owned by Michael Schurter, whose father also had a blacksmith shop next to it. Murphy’s resided next to this in an old building that is now the late Frank Phelan’s garage. Proceeding west, the next building was a house owned by Toohey and Coumans. Then came the lane and the property of Daniel Mullins, great-grandfather of Frank Mullins, afterwards the Golden property, and now John Walter’s home. The only other building west of this was the frame church of St. John the Baptist, built in 1863 and situated to the east of the present church. WESTERLY FROM THE NORTHWEST CORNER On the northwest corner of the Village stood Lawrence Hartlieb’s hotel, built in 1869, which has well weathered the intervening time, being still intact, and now operating under the name of the King Edward Hotel and owned by Mrs. James Fleming. West of this hotel was a store owned by Henry Cargill and run by Black Bros., afterwards by Trimble, then Harper and finally by Seitz of Formosa. It was this store that was later to become McNab’s store. Next to the store was the first log schoolhouse. It stood near Joseph Schutofski’s business place. It had desks along the sides only for older pupils, while the younger ones had to be content with just logs to sit on. Then came the cemetery, used from 1860 to 1868, with Frank’s harness shop next to it and then Joseph Graf’s [sic] building, still owned by Mollie Graf. West of the harness shop was Joseph Hunzieger’s [sic] wagon shop, the father of Councillor [sic] Walter Huntziger. [sic] Next came the short lane and on this lane the first home of John Coumans, now owned by Jack Stapleton. PHELAN’S DAM The contour of the land, west of this dam, was much different than it is now. For here was the hub and centre of activity of the Village, with Phelan’s dam and mill, a log house still standing where Patrick Toohey lived and another frame house, the home of John Phelan. This dam created quite a sizeable pond, which at the west end bridge measured some 300 feet in width, and it served excellently as the ‘old swimming hole’ of those times. EASTERLY FROM THE NORTHEAST CORNER
On the northeast corner of the Village was Cashin’s shoe shop where in
1875 Toohey’s hotel was built practically as large as Hartlieb’s hotel,
later owned and operated by John Lacey, father of Councillor Jack Lacey.
It was burned in 1897, and never rebuilt. In 1879 Peter Graff built a
brewery just east of the creek, but it also was burned with Lacey’s hotel.
The building is now occupied and owned by John Zister. The only house east
of the brewery was Michael Karner’s, who moved to Gagetown, Michigan, and
it is now owned by John Siegel. Later on, of course, Peter Fischer and
Mrs. Alex McKinnon had homes to the east. SOUTHERLY FROM THE SOUTHEAST CORNER At the southeast corner stood an old upright steam saw mill, the mill and dam being built by Dennis Phelan in 1865, later rented to Hartlieb and Miller and then sold to John Coumans, Joseph Graff, and finally to Thomas and now Frank Mullin, who has an up-to-date chopping mill on the site. On the corner of the land, where Andy Ditner lives, was the home of Simon Coumans. Along the next lane was the home of George Forwald, then Joseph Ansetett and then Dennis Donnelly later owned by Martin Oldheiser, the last house on the lane being owned by Pat Culliton. THE CHURCH Our pioneers had a very deep
respect and appreciation for their religion and consequently their lives
were closely associated with the church. The first Mass was celebrated in
Phelan’s old log house on the north side of the river, built in 1852.
Later on, in 1859, Mr. Phelan built a log house on the south side, which
became the first church and is still standing today, as is also the frame
house which Mr. Phelan built in 1867. The first celebrant was the Rev.
Caspar [sic] Matoga, who was born in Siepraw, Galicia, entered the Jesuit
order, came to Guelph in 1852, and was appointed to officiate in the
Counties of Wellington, Grey and Bruce, where he carried on his missionary
work. He soon began his tedious trips on foot through the bush from Guelph,
in the course of which he reached Phelan’s settlement very infrequently,
but his career was cut short by hs untimely death in 1856 at the age of 33
years. CEMETERY The first cemetery was on the property now owned by Mrs. Hartlieb, Miss Graff and the High School playground. The first person buried in it was Mr. Tyrell in the year 1860. Eight years later the cemetery was moved to its position back of the church. A working bee was organized to assist in this work. Miss Rose Kelly was the first one to be buried in this cemetery. However, years later this cemetery became so crowded and the drainage was bad, so Dean Zettler purchased a new site east of the Village in 1930. The first person buried in this new cemetery was Mrs. Stapleton. No doubt most of the burials from now on will take place here, excepting those who have plots in the older one. SCHOOL The first school in Chepstow was a log
building built in 1858, situated on Mr. Schutofski’s lot. The first
teacher was Wm. Cassidy, who had previously taught for four years in
Riversdale. In 1875 a new frame school was built a little north of the old
one. It had two rooms and the last teachers in this school were Mr. Leyes
and Miss McGillicuddy. The building was later moved up to the road and is
now the warehouse of Joseph Schutofski. Since the great majority of people
were Catholic, a separate school was built opposite the church in 1892.
The school section had long anticipated securing religious teachers for
the separate school. This was finally realized when four Sisters of Notre
Dame were heartily welcomed to Chepstow in 1926. These first Sisters were
Sister Edwardine, Sister Mary Pius, Sister Daniela and Sister Tarcisia.
The Hartleib residence was transformed into a convent with two rooms
remodeled to serve as a school for a Continuation Class. Twenty-eight
pupils were enrolled in this class on September 13, 1926. FIRST BUGGY The first buggy, costing $125.00 came into the Village in 1880, owned by Peter Fritz, followed by one for Joseph Fritz, the John Lippert and Joseph Oldheiser. Rapidly after this the buggy age came into its own here. The first cutter was owned by John Coumans. FIRST AUTOMOBILE The first automobile used in Chepstow was a second-hand Overland bought in London in 1912 by John Coumans. All the repair parts, and there were many of them, had to be brought in from Toledo, Ohio. A few months after, Rev. Dean Zettler bought and Oakland car and Roger Clancy a Ford. FIRST TELEPHONE Before the days of the telephone, a telegraph instrument was operated in McNab’s store, and provided for the needs of quick communication. In 1908 the first telephone line was built into the Village and soon many business places and homes had phones installed and this did away with the telegraph service. FIRST ELECTRIC LIGHTS Candles and somewhat sparingly used coal oil lamps provided light up until the year 1928, when an electric power line was run into Chepstow from the Walkerton system. A few years before, Delco lights had been put in the church and J. J. Weiler’s store. It was rather a fortuitous circumstance that gave that gave Chepstow her electricity. The Foshay Co. of Minneapolis had been promoting power utility systems in different parts of the States and Canada, in the course of which they bought out the Walkerton plant and immediately extended it to include Chepstow without any cost or obligations on the part of the Villagers. The company lasted just long enough to get this work done, when they went into receivership and Ontario Hydro Power Commission bought them out. CONCRETE WORK In 1908, the old wooden bridge at Frank
Mullin’s was replaced by a reinforced concrete arch, the contract being
carried out by John Coumans. In 1927, Thomas Mullin replaced the old dam
at his mill by a modern concrete structure. FIRST RAILROAD The first railroad engine came into Paisley on June 8, 1872. It had come as far as Walkerton November 30, 1871. The Railway was known as the Wellington Grey and Bruce Line, and the company owning it had received a bonus of $250,000 from the county for putting this line through the county to Southampton. It was later acquired by the Grand Trunk Railway and then by the Canadian National Railways. FIRST RADIO In 1922 the first radio, a large size cabinet, DeForrest - Crossley make, was bought by A. M. Boegel, general merchant. GREENOCK SWAMP The
early surveyors made unfavourable reports on what was to them waste land,
now know as the Greenock Swamp. For 50 years it was a barrier to the
building of an east-west road through the Township, and it was not until
1871, when the swamp lands were publicly sold and acquired within a few
years by Henry Cargill, who constructed some ditches to aid in getting
out the valuable pine timber, that road building was made feasible. In
1901 roads were opened through on the 6th and the 10th
Concessions. It is now interesting to note the County Valuators’ report on
these swamp lands, issued in 1879. They say “Greenock Township value.”
This latter prediction has failed to materialize, as Mr. Cargill not only
took out the pine, but a lot of other timber as well, and his son, Wm.
Cargill, continued the lumbering operations. He has since sold the largest
part of the swamp to Senator J. J. Donnelly, who, with his son Clare,
opened up a sawmill in Chepstow in 1925 and they estimate a sufficient
supply of timber on the swamp lands to run the mill indefinitely. Besides
its timber value it provides a reservoir for holding rainfall and
preventing floods, so that what appeared in the early years to be a
liability, to the Township is now a definite asset. ASSESSMENT VALUES As an indication of how settlement in Greenock advanced in the first few years, a glance at the following assessment values in the Township will be of interest: 1851 $9500, This shows quite an influx of settlers in the first five years of our history, but it pales into insignificance with the 1936 assessed value of $1,783,770. MUNICIPAL LIFE OF GREENOCK The
first election was held in 1854 when George Cromar was chosen for Reeve
and Messrs. H. Hawthorne, Luke Chartreau, H. Pinkerton and L. Kenny were
the Councillors. The Township Clerk was James Cromar, the Treasurer John
McGregor, Assessor James Mahon and the collector William Fleming. These
officials carried on until 1858. 1859 - Reeve, John Valentine; Councillors, D.
Pinkerton, 1860-61 The same except J. Blackhall instead of George Cromar. 1862 - The same except L. Chartreau for J. Blackhall
and 1863 - R. Pinkerton, Reeve; Councillors, J.
Valentine, D. Phelan, 1864- Reeve, R. Pinkerton; Councillors, T. Corrigan,
J. Phlan, 1865 - Reeve, J. Valentine; Councillors, T.
Corrigan, R. Pinkerton, 1866 - Reeve, R. Pinkerton; Councillors, T. Corrigan,
Jas. Mair, 1867 - Reeve, R. Pinkerton; Councillors, M.
Pinkerton, Jas. Mair, 1868 - Reeve, Jas. Mair; Councillors, H. Montgomery,
R. Young, Year Reeve Councillors 1869 R. Pinkerton Same as in 1868 1870 R. Pinkerton J.
Cameron, R. Garland, 1871 R. Pinkerton J.
Cameron, J. Waechter, 1872 Jas. Mair J.
Millar, D. McKinnon, 1873 Jas. Mair P.
Toohey, D. McKinnon, 1874 John Millar P.
Toohey, J. Pinkerton, 1875 Wm. Bradley P.
Toohey, R. Garland, 1876 Wm. Bradley J.
Coumans, R. Garland, 1877 Wm. Bradley J.
Phelan, R. Garland, 1878 Wm. Bradley T.
Pickard, L. Lamb, 1879 Wm. Bradley S.
Hawthorne, R. Garland, 1880 Wm. Bradley W.A.
Reid, A. Symon, 1881 Wm. Bradley C.
Ross, A. Symon, 1882 Wm. Bradley R.
Russell, A. Symon, 1883 Wm. Bradley J.
McKee, A. Symon, 1884 W.A. Reid J.
McKee, A. Cameron, 1885 Hy. Cargill Wm.
Fischer, L. Parkinson, 1886 Hy. Cargill R.
Keyes, J. McKee, 1887 Hy. Cargill R.
Keyes, J. McKee, 1888 John Coumans D.
Pinkerton, J. McKee, 1889 John Coumans D.
Pinkerton, J. McKee, 1890 John Coumans D.
Pinkerton, S. Hawthorne, 1892 Wm. Bradley L.
Yaeck, S. Hawthorne, 1893 Alex Symon L.
Yaeck, S. Hawthorne, 1894 Alex Symon L.
Yaeck, J.J. Donnelly, 1895 Alex Symon L.
Yaeck, J.J. Donnelly, 1896 John McKee L.
Parkinson, J.J. Donnelly, 1897 J.J. Donnelly W.
J. McKeeman, 1898 J.J. Donnelly W.
J. McKeenan, 1899 W.J. McKeeman J. Daniel,
S. Garland, 1900 John McKee J.
Daniel, S. Garland, 1901 John McKee J.
Daniel, S. Garland, 1902 Jas. Daniel T.
Fullerton, S. Garland, 1903 J. Meagher T.
Fullerton, 1904 J. Meagher T.
Fullerton, 1905 T. Fullerton D.
Phelan, M. McNab, II, 1906 M. McNab II D.
Phelan, C. Webb, 1907 Alex McKee D.
Phelan, J. Hogan, 1908 Alex McKee T.
Fullerton, J. Hogan, 1909 Alex McKee T.
Fullerton, J. Halliday, 1910 Dennis Phelan Wm.
Oehring, B. Wells, 1911 Dennis Phelan Wm.
Oehring, B. Wells, 1912 Dennis Phelan Wm.
Oehring, B. Wells, 1913 Dennis Phelan Wm.
Oehring, J. Collison, 1914 Dennis Phelan N.
McKinnon, J. Collison, 1915 Dennis Phelan N.
McKinnon, J. Collison, 1916 Dennis Phelan T.
Symon, T. Sawyer, 1917 Dennis Phelan T.
Symon, T. Sawyer, 1918 Dennis Phelan T.
Symon, T. Sawyer, 1919 M. McNab II T.
Symon, J.G. Carter, 1920 M. McNab II T.
Desmond, A. Ditner, 1921 M. McNab II T.
Sawyer, H. Spitzig, 1922 M. McNab II T.
Sawyer, H. Spitzig, 1923 Jos. Carter T.
Sawyer, H. Spitzig, 1924 Jos. Carter R.
Teeple, T. Houston, 1925 Jos. Carter R.
Teeple, T. Houston, 1926 Andr. Ditner P.
Dales, D. Phelan, 1927 Andr. Ditner P.
Dales, D. Phelan, 1928 Andr. Ditner P.
Dales, J. Brindley, 1929 Andr. Ditner E.
Reid, J. Brindley, 1930 Peter Dales E.
Reid, G. Gilchrist, 1931 Peter Dales E.
Reis, G. Gilchrist, 1932 Peter Dales C.
Fitzsimmons, 1933 Peter Dales C.
Fitzsimmons, 1934 Peter Dales C.
Fitzsimmons, 1935 Clare Donnelly
A. McTavish, J. Lacey, 1936-37 The same Council In 1928 a new position, viz., that of Road Superintendent, was created, and Wm. Coumans became the appointee and is still still [sic] serving in 1937. TOWNSHIP CLERKS 1854-68, James Cromar; 1868-1881, Wm. Clark; 1881-83, John Millar; 1883-1903, J.W. McNab; 1903-08, J.J. Donnelly; 1908-29, Thomas Purdy, and his son followed from 1929 until the present. TOWNSHIP TREASURERS 1856-58, James Cromar; 1859-60, Hugh Montgomery; 1861-1905, Wm. Clark; 1905-present, M.M. Schurter. FINAL There is always something about a small place, removed some-what from the busy highways of Life, whether it be in Spain, England or Canada, that seems to retain the original character and activities of the old settlers. This character gives the inhabitants a detached, simpler view of life which comes to the surface so frequently that the stranger is quick to note the frank and sincere friendliness of an unsophisticated community. Modern conveniences and modes of living tend to dim this phase of our culture, but in Chepstow this natural charm of the people stands out and assures all its sons and daughters a cordial and hearty welcome home at all times. “Though Chepstow is a little
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