The Makers of Canvey Island
By Mary L. Cox 1902.
This article originally appeared in the Home Counties Magazine in 1902. These are also original photos from the magazine.
Dutch Boats off Seawall
Until the improvements of the last thirty years were effected, converting the island into one of the healthiest places of the Essex coast, Canvey was shunned by all but those acclimatised.
The Dutch, although not occupying any land at the present day, still continue their connection with the island, for in the creek they anchor their picturesque eel-boats (that supply the demands of the London market), and carry on a small local trade in cheeses,, brooms, and sabots.
Canvey Island, situated at the mouth of the Thames, and divided from the Essex mainland by Hadleigh Ray and Benfleet Creek, is accessible to pedestrians at low tide. Its length is about five miles, its breadth two miles; contains some 3,600 acres, and supports a population of over 300.
Until the seventeenth century, although generally spoken of as Canvey Island, the area now comprised within the sea walls was in reality six islands, cut up by many creeks and waterways, and constantly overflowed by the tides. These six islands are found in Norden's map of 1594, and also on that drawn by Speede in 1610. Tillage was practically impossible, but the marshes and saltings afforded very valuable pasturage for about 4,000 sheep, according to Camden. Cheeses of the ewes' milk were made in the small huts or dairies called "wicks," the nuclei of many of the present farms. This dairy work was carried on by men, for it was impossible for the women and children to withstand the un-healthiness of the climate. Until recent years it was no parish, but paid, and still pays, tithes to the following nine parishes: North and South Benfleet, Bowers Gifford, Laindon, Pitsea, Vange, Prittlewell, Southchurch, and Hadleigh.
Its history divides itself into three distinct parts, with sharply defined characteristics attached to each. The first, longest, and undoubtedly the least interesting, terminates with the introduction of the Dutch in 1622. The time they practically possessed the island, and the years subsequent, comprise the second, a period full of interest; and the third dates from the arrival of the Rev. Henry Hayes (first vicar) in 1872, who henceforth, until his death in 1900, devoted his ceaseless energy to the development of the resources of the island and a village life, which before his time was absolutely non-existent.
Canvey Island is doubtless the Convennos mentioned in Ptolemy's Geography, but of its early history facts are very meagre. In 1263 Peter de Moubery, and Eigena his wife, granted the marsh called Westwick, "lying between the marsh called Horemors and le Hole hauene," to John de Longe, and Joan his wife, they in return rendering annually to God and the church of Morton five and a half marks. Before 13 Edward I. William Woodham held the marsh Northwick "cum Wykis" of William Fitz-Peter, at an annual rent of two marks. These marshes Roger Apulton, esq., possessed when he died in 1557, and were by him held of Suzanna Tonge, alias Clarensiux, as of her manor of Thundersley; Chafflett and Fatherwick Marshes he also held, all this property having belonged to his grandfather, Roger Apulton, who had died in 1530. In 1604 the Appletons also held a salt marsh called Autliche and Wolfpittle, and another called Shornam. The greater part of the island, in fact, belonged to the Appletons, who made a considerable figure in county history, and lived at Jarvis Hall, South Benfleet, for nearly two centuries. The family was ruined through its adherence to the royalist cause in the Civil War.
Other ancient possessors of lands in the island were Edward Baker, who, in 1543, Nicholas Wentworth, esq., three marshes in Canweye, called Knightswyke, Southwyke, and Attnashe. In 1569 James Baker, esq., held 500 acres of salt marsh here.
In 1322 John de Apeton held a marsh in " Canefe," called Lymwerd, of Philip de Heneingham. In 1317 negotiations were opened with John, Duke of Brittany, respecting the ship La Lyon de Herwiz, that had been seized by one of the duke's vessels in the island of Keneveys. Justice to Henry de Oreford, a burgess of Ipswich, the owner, was demanded and denied, but the captain and mariners were allowed their freedom.
Beyond such few facts as these little seems known of Canvey, being, as it was, a place of dreary, unhealthy marshes, unsuited for habitation. The incursions of the sea, so frequent and disastrous to the owners and their flocks, at last made it necessary that steps should be taken to ensure the marshes from these inroads. In times of danger the sheep were driven to the centre of the island, where the ground is somewhat higher. Quite possibly, before the arrival of the Dutch in the island, attempts had been made to protect the land from the sea, but the efforts made were evidently of little avail.
When the contracts for draining the marshy and fenny districts of England were undertaken by Cornelius Vermuyden in the seventeenth century, the landowners of Canvey Island appear to have realized that it would be advisable to negotiate for securing their marshes from the sea. Accordingly, on 9th April, 1622, we find the following landowners—Sir Henry Appleton, Julius Bludder, John, William, and Mary Blackmore, Thomas Binckes and his wife, and Abigail Baker—granting in fee simple to Joas Cropenberch, haberdasher and citizen of London, one-third of their lands in the island, in consideration of his sufficiently "inning" and recovering the island at his own cost and charges, and maintaining an effective sea wall.
This was doubtless a speculation on his part, for the engineer who actually built the wall was the above-mentioned Cornelius Vermuyden, who about that time undertook the drainage of Dagenham Flats, and the marshes around Leigh and Hadleigh. Certain it is, that by 1st December, 21 Jas. I., Joas Cropenberch had performed his contract, for by indenture of that date Sir Henry Appleton granted him the third part of his lands, amounting to 471 acres, 120 rods, which included the marshes of Westwick, Shornares, Westateues, Chaffleet, Willispitt, Darlette, and Castleweeke. As frequently occurred, the capital for the undertaking was most probably raised in Holland, for Heinrick Brouwer, writing from Amsterdam in 1637, says, that through his acquaintance with the Croppenburghs, he obtained, when in London in 1622, a sixteenth share in the embankment of Canvey Island.
Their method of reclaiming the land appears to have been to dig a deep and broad ditch, called a delf, some little distance from the shore, and to have banked up the earth obtained by this means along the tide line, facing the whole towards the sea with stone. Marshes thus protected were levelled by filling up the smaller runlets, the water which was tidal being directed into the larger ones that discharged themselves into the sea by sluices, seven in number, in various parts of the island. These are now known as the "Commissioners' Dykes," and in no way belong to the farms through which they run. The utilization of these natural waterways accounts for the very tortuous dykes that form the boundary of one field from another. "Sunken" and "Rilly" marshes appear never to have been levelled after enclosure, for they bear to-day the deep traces of the smaller streams; but perhaps the best idea of a general condition of the land before the Dutch began their work may be gathered from the saltings, as seen in the photograph of the island from the mainland.
When once the island was secured from the tides considerable numbers of Dutch labourers settled there, for, in 1627, 200 of them employed in "tilling and husbanding of ground in Canvey Island " petitioned George Monteigne, Bishop of London, that services should be held in Dutch, either in some near church, or in the house they had provided and fitted for divine service until they had built their intended chapel, within two or three years. This petition apparently was granted.
On 21st December, 1631, the Dutch community of Canvey Island elected Cornell's Jacobsen as their minister, agreeing to pay him three pence for every acre in their possession, "on condition that as long as the land does not produce anything the proprietors shall allow the half of this contribution to be paid from the rent." This agreement was signed and approved by the following:
Henryck Thomassen ; Jan Lawrensen ; Jan Pieterssen ; Rutger Shuller; Jan Janssen ; Bartholomeus Janssen ; Pieter Martenssen ; Morinus Pieterssen ; Willem Key; Lenaert Adriaenssen; Balthazar Janssen; Morinus Aertsen ; Wouter Janssen; Lieven Jacobsen; Jacob Lievenssen; Boudewijn Stekelorum; Hugo Teunissen ; Jan Pietersen ; Peter Cornelissen ; Simeon Pawelsen ; Herman Claessen; Adriaen Janssen; Geraert Henrycksen; Boudewyn van Pachtenweghe; Adriaen Cornelissen; Teunis Claessen ; Jan van Collenberch.
Canvey from Benfleet Station
In connection with this matter the farmer-minister was summoned to London in the autumn of 1638, and there stated that, with the exception of that year's barley harvest, which was good, the land had been in a poor case, the proprietors suffering losses.
Next year he succeeded in paying £6 2s. 6d. arrears of rent as tenant of "Mr. Nicholas Pelseere, Doutchman," showing that farming for his own benefit was scarcely more profitable. He, together with Peter Priem, elder of the church, represented in the London colloque of 1641 the Dutch community of Canvey Island, one of the eight Dutch churches in England. As such they petitioned Charles I. for free exercise of their religion.
After thirteen years of useful and varied services to the islanders, Cornelis Jacobsen died, whereupon Peter Priem, who appears to have been one of the most wealthy and influential of the Dutch, was dispatched to London with authority to elect a new minister. The choice fell upon Mathyas van de Westhuise, who a few months later seems to have succumbed to malarial influences, after an illness of seven or eight days, to the great loss of his congregation, by whom he was much loved. The difficulty of finding anyone to undertake this cure was considerable. No candidate appearing in London, the community there applied to Holland, in January 1645, for help. It was at this time suggested that, owing to the very small stipend, and the unhealthiness of the place, one minister should serve the two churches of Maidstone and Canvey Island, residing alternate months in each place. The powers in Holland demanded an assured annual income of £30, but only £14 could be raised on the island. The proprietors in London would supplement this sum only by £12, and then conditionally for work done. Should the islanders submit to a bailee, then that sum should be further increased by £5.
Upon this guarantee, Derick Hoste, of Middleburg, persuaded "a very learned and devout young man," George Meunix, to undertake the ministry for one year. The congregation of Yarmouth thought his talents hidden in Canvey, for they took steps to secure his ministrations, that brought upon them a rebuke from the London community. Being bound to serve the islanders for one year, George Meunix remained with them that time, for he deputed two of the community to be representatives at the colloque held in London in 1646. Upon his resignation Dom. Ketelaere undertook the ministry, and during his absence from the island to attend the colloque of the following year the Dutch found it necessary that baptism should be administered by the English, whereupon the consistory of Canvey begged their minister should return to them the earliest moment business would allow. Neither he nor his probable successor, Isack Snijers, found the circumstances of life on the island sufficiently attractive to remain long, for, in 1650, the Dutch complained that they had been a year without any minister. Meetings, however, had not been abandoned. In the name of the community Peter Priem begged that a minister should be sent from London for at least one service. This unsatisfactory condition of affairs was of long duration, for they had no minister to represent them in the annual London meeting in 1651, and the members of their consistory were "simple people with no learning," incapable of transacting their business. Indeed, it is doubtful whether anyone attended to their spiritual needs until Dom. Johannes Beutacq, formerly of Nieuwkercke, was provisionally accepted by the community of Canvey Island in 1654.
This was the beginning of evil days for the islanders. Bad reports were current in Holland concerning this man, but, according to the evidence he produced in England, all the accusations had been withdrawn. It was in that year's colloque that Peter Priem made the provisional appointment known in London, but owing to a visit in the spring to Holland, his affairs in Canvey required his attention so urgently that the elder Antheunis Diericksen was deputed to replace him as the Canvey representative, and to decide all matters concerning the island. The colloque saw fit to decree that Dom. Beutacq should be suspended from office until his innocence was proved, and such was the news that Diericksen took back from London. Indignation burst out in every home, and a letter was despatched in all haste to London to beg this might not be the case, as "he has accommodated himself to the place. For whereas all former ministers have resided far away from us, which was very inconvenient in cases of illness and death, this man resides with us and is content with our food and drink."
Chaffletts Farm
Meanwhile inquiries were being made in Holland, the result of which only confirmed the London consistory and colloque in the decision already arrived at. Harvest operations delayed a deputation from the island to London, but by September division had crept into the community—the consistory willing to abide by the decision imposed upon them, the greater part of the congregation more determined than ever in their adherence to their minister, which determination they communicated to London, in a letter signed by twenty-nine members, saying that Dom. Beutacq had been with them for sixteen months, and was much liked also by the English, adding: "If we cannot have our wish we will not contribute towards the maintenance of another minister." Peter Boije evidently was the ringleader of the resistance, for to him was addressed the remonstrance by the London consistory as to its wrong. The party in favour of Beutacq never showed any sign of wavering in their resolution to retain him, for finding "no guilt for eighteen months we intend to let him preach, as we derive great benefit in illness and other respects, as former ministers very seldom visited our sick."
Throughout these proceedings the consistory remained faithful to the London decree; but matters reached a climax on Sunday October 7th, when outside the church the people assembled, some "seemingly to hear the word of God, while others to let Beutacq preach, and not having the keys of the church, to break it open." Peter Priem begged the people to comply with authority, but none would listen. They threateningly demanded the church keys, whereupon Priem and his fellow elder, desirous of avoiding open riot, decided to hang the keys upon the church door, admonishing the people to consider. No sooner was the door open than Dom. Beutacq, in the flush of victory, mounted the pulpit and preached a sermon, promising his adherents two for the following week. Immediately Peter Priem tendered his resignation, after fifteen years' service. This the London consistory would not accept, asking him to have patience until some remedy could be found. The situation, however, was sufficiently grave to call for an extraordinary assembly in London in January, 1656, to which the householders of Canvey Island deputed Franchois Mannandijse, (elder), Johannes Malstaff, Anthoinis de Smith (deacons), and Pieter Parmentier, in the place of Gillis van Belle (elder), who was ill. In their plea for leniency towards Johannes Beutacq, they say the place was inconvenient and unfit for a minister of great respect. Canvey was again without a minister, as for some two or three months Johannes Beutacq appeared to take no active part in the religious services, remaining quietly in his lodgings in the house of Pieter van Belle's widow. By July, however, they had a young minister, but he had no intention of remaining, so that on behalf of a theological student, Dom. Lambertus Schenckius, then resident on Canvey, the islanders applied to London for a testimonial of fitness for service. At the end of a year he, too, left them. Then, reduced to great despair by these constant changes, and the difficulties of finding ministers, the consistory forwarded to London a form of election "for anyone."
Again fresh troubles were looming large for this much-tried community, and these from their English neighbours. In great perplexity, the consistory wrote to London for advice in the new crisis. The island was the property of several parishes, to which the Dutch paid tithes, but one man of the six or seven English families that had gone to live amongst them refused to pay, saying the different clergy did nothing for them. The ministers advanced they should either go to church (to some of the parishes a distance of seven or eight miles) or provide some place for preaching in the island. Thereupon the English residents looked longingly upon the Dutch church, for the loan of which, in due course, they made application. Use of the same was denied again and again, on the ground that the clause in the article provided only for service in the Dutch language, as could be seen in the document which was in the possession of the proprietor, Abraham Otgeer, merchant of London. The situation was further aggravated by the fact that Dom. Beutacq had commenced preaching in the English Church, attracting a great part of his former Dutch congregation. On the Whit Monday angry scenes were again witnessed around the little church, but this time between the English residents and the Dutch; the former had summoned a minister, and clamoured for the use of the church, and a united Dutch party determined to allow no encroachment upon their prerogative for fear of losing their "privilege." The keys of the church were successfully withheld, and the English had to retire, with purpose unattained, to await the development of their affairs.
Next year, in May, 1658, their "worthy brother and minister Dom. Joannis Lodewyck was elected to the community of Sandwich, so that again application had to be made to London for a minister, who afterwards proved the needs of the island could be well served for £30, although he was compelled to keep a horse. In 1663 Canvey sent its minister, Dom. Justijnus Smetius, to the London colloque as its representative. Thirteen years later we still find Dom. Smitt minister of Canvey Island, and deputed to the colloque summoned by that consistory in London on account of the inaccessibility of the island. The elders, however, could find no time for the journey to town, on account of the great drought of that year. After again representing Canvey in 1680, this minister, who had remained longer than any of his predecessors, made it known in the following year that he wished to leave the island, without proffering any reason for so doing. Persuasions, both from his own congregation and from the London consistory, were alike of no avail to make him withdraw his resignation, and so in the course of time, and in the early days of 1682, the community accepted the services of Mr. Nicholaus Steenis. For two or three years he remained their minister, during that time sending, in 1684, Joores de Schilder and Cornelius Classens, his elders, to the London meeting. The registers of this community are, unfortunately, lost, but there was at least one Dutch wedding celebrated on the island, and that during the time of Dom Smidt. This was the wedding of Joanis Smaagg who espoused a certain "Janeke," whose surname is now unknown.
Through accepting office on Canvey Island ministers had evidently suffered in regard to subsequent preferment, at least, so we may judge by the decision of one in 1697, who, though desirous of being employed elsewhere, would not " leave the community, even in case of crossing to Holland, as to say one has had a place here (Canvey) sounds strange to many people, and a fact interpreted unfavourably."
The last minister of whom anything is known was Dom. Gerard de Gols, who, with Peter van Belle, attended the colloque held in London in 1702, at the summons of the Canvey consistory.
Dutch Cottage, Canvey
allow of much horticulture), and three tiny round Dutch cottages (one since blown down), built about eleven feet high and broad, with brick foundations and superstructure of mud, kept in position by a pargetting of cockle shells—such was Canvey when Mr. Hayes was appointed first vicar in 1872. These features still remain, but the island bears all the traces of a working, thoughtful energy. The church has been replaced by a larger building, with schools near by. Close at hand is a village with an imposing vicarage and picturesque thatched well, the boring of which was an expensive and lengthy undertaking, and, in the neighbourhood of the "Lobster Smack," a trim row of coastguard cottages, which, together with the introduction of a post office, are some of the most apparent results of Mr. Hayes' vicariate.
The little chapel found by Mr. Hayes was not the one left by the Dutch. After 1704 there seems to have been no regular worship. By 1712 the chapel had become so decayed that another was built at the charge of Mr. Edgar, an officer in the Victualling Office, who owned Chaffletts Farm, and consecrated on the 11th of June 1712, by Compton, Bishop of London, probably the first bishop to visit the island. He further settled £12 per annum on the same. This lasted some thirty years and more, when a new one was built about the year 1745, partly by a contribution of the inhabitants, but mostly by the benefaction of Daniel Scratton, esq., owner of considerable estates in Prittlewell. He also gave part of the tithes to trustees to pay £10 a year to the vicar of Prittlewell, the better to enable him to perform divine service there, and £10 a year more to the minister, or curate, duly appointed to preach twenty sermons in St. Katherine's Chapel in the island. In 1768 about £17 a year was paid by the nine incumbents who took the tithes of the island. With this scanty provision the islanders had to content themselves for a long period, even to within the last thirty years.
Many of the islanders still remember this state of affairs, for said an old man in answer to an inquiry as to the services in the old church, "Well! he [the appointed clergyman] come a-Good Friday and never no more only twenty times as fast as he could and then we used to put up the flag." This flag on the church was a quite necessary signal to the islanders when services did take place, as wind and weather would not always permit of the execution of clerical duties. For these auspicious occasions the shutters were taken down from the church windows and the smuggled goods removed from the sacred edifice, which, from its position, at a desirable distance between the shore and the mainland, was oftentimes made the depository of this class of traders. There were even times when it was intimated it would not be convenient for the clergyman to officiate on a particular day! A few years ago a small cavity was found in the churchyard near one of the present church walls, sufficiently large to store cigars or tobacco. Through all the winter months no services were ever held on the island. For marriage, the people were obliged, in many instances, to journey a considerable number of miles to the church of the parish to which their part of the island belonged; their dead they carried to the nearest churchyard, South Benfleet.
From the "Surveyor's Rate Book, 1742-89," many items of interest respecting the church expenses may be gathered. By 1761 the constant reglazing of the windows had become so great an expense that it was deemed expedient to make shutters. This necessitated an outlay of £2 is. 2d., with an additional expenditure of 9s. 6d. for painting. The clerks, for their services, received the sum of 6d every Sunday; the number of sermons, however, for which provision had been made, was seldom realized, and fell short by no less than eight in 1785. Only once in the season was the chapel cleaned, and with the early approach of autumn the sacred edifice was given over to loneliness and solitude, unless disturbed by the smugglers. This state of affairs practically continued until 1872.
With an indomitable energy, and wonderful capacity for enlisting the interest and sympathy of those with whom he came in contact, Mr. Hayes devoted himself to the development of the island, commanding the admiration and respect of all who knew him. One of his first acts was to secure the building of a school for the accommodation of some fifty children, for, owing to the improvements in the land drainage, brought about by the exertions and example of Mr. Danbury, it was possible for farm labourers to bring their young families on to the island without the risk of seeing the children fall victims to malaria, and until then no provision had been made for educating the children. The church clerk who, under the old regime, received 5s. per annum for his services, and who has been resident on the island for over eighty years, still remembers the days when only people who cared but little whether they lived or died would undertake the farm work on the island.
The building of the schools accomplished, Mr. Hayes turned his thoughts towards the enlargement of the church. As it then stood, dedicated to St. Katherine, it was a small wooden building accommodating some ninety worshippers, the interior remarkable only for the absence of pulpit and reading-desk, both removed to afford more space. The churchyard had but one tombstone, although only too well tenanted, for many have been the waifs of the sea cast upon the island's shores, to find a last resting-place among strangers.
It was intended only to enlarge and re-roof this building, but owing to the difficulty of enlarging the site, it was rebuilt in the old churchyard about twenty feet further back from the road. The windows and porch of the old church were re-introduced into the new. This was consecrated November 9th, 1875, by the Bishop of Rochester. Three years later an organ, transferred from Great Waltham, added much to the little church.
Between the time of the active and persevering Dutch settlers, and the dawn of these brighter days, Canvey passed through many vicissitudes. During the ministry of the last Dutch pastors appointed to the community on the island, English interests were gradually again becoming predominant, and the number of English inhabitants greatly increased. Nevertheless, down to the year 1704 we may trace pretty accurately the activity of the settlement there. After this time the proceedings of the Dutch consistory of Canvey Island become somewhat obscure. That the conduct of affairs was hazardous and unhappy may be gleaned from a letter addressed from Canvey in April, 1705, by a certain Anna Ca[therina] van Rentzen, widow of Emilius van Cuilenborgh, to the consistory in London, in which letter she remarked that her husband (presumably the minister)," wounded to the soul by oppression, pain, and calumny, had at last yielded up the ghost." He was buried in South Benfleet churchyard 13th October, 1704. Forwarding some of her husband's MSS., she begs that the widow's pension of £50, promised to her husband, should be increased by £10.
In the same letter she complains of the unhealthiness of the place, for then, even as for long afterwards, marsh fevers were the penalty of living on the island. The registers of South Benfleet record the burial of a Dutchman in 1623; three the next year, and in 1625 three more, and fourteen men, women, and children between that date and 1641. Then there is a gap of twenty years. Dutch names are of frequent occurrence in this register down to 1700. In 1710 there is an agreement between the overseers of the poor of the London Dutch Church and Jan Smagge, a farmer who rented thirty-eight acres of [marsh] land lately in the occupation of Peter van Bell, in the parish of North Benfleet, and in the south part of "Holy Head, alias Canvey Island," at £8 per annum. In 1720 John Van de Voord, of Canvey Island, yeoman, leased this same ground for a term of eleven years at an annual rent of £12, with permission to plough up two small pieces of land, but no more, under penalty of £3 per acre.
Respecting the property owned by the London Dutch Church on the island, a number of receipts furnish many items of interest. Thus, John Greenway gives a receipt, dated 5th September 1721, to Mr. Vanbord for " Twelf Pound fifteen shillens by the order of the Dutch Church for 51 aekers at 5 shillen a naker for the ues of the seay walls." About this time we find an entry, "If there comes an outrageous tide to allow in proportion what other gentlemen doe."
Down to the year 1800, when Mr. Gardiner bought fifty-six acres from the deacons of the Dutch church in Austin Friars, many such accounts and business transactions show the close connection the Dutch community in London maintained with the island, although it is extremely doubtful whether any Hollanders had actually inhabited Canvey for many years prior to this date.
Property on the island has so frequently changed hands that it is often a difficult matter to trace the consecutive owners. Monks Wick is owned by the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's; in 1867 George Hilton, of Flemings Runwell, was lessee. It is in South Benfleet parish. Waterside Farm also belongs to the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's. About 1807, when in the tenure of Henry Wood, a fire consumed everything but the house. Being uninsured, his neighbours subscribed to make good the loss, and, to his honour be it said, he afterwards refunded all the money advanced. The Wood family, down to within recent years, has always held much land in Canvey Island. Their earliest known connection was in 1579, when Henry Wood rented Sharnard, in North Benfleet parish, and another marsh of Edmund Tyrell. He also owned Russells, and other marsh lands adjoining, purchased of Colonel W. Brewse Kersheman. Southwick Marsh, otherwise Tree Farm, formerly the property of the colonel, was purchased by Jonathan Wood, who also similarly acquired Little Brick House in North Benfleet and Prittlewell; it was afterwards acquired by William Kynaston, of Gresham Street, London.
Chaffletts and Fartherwicke were once the property of James Holbrook, of Tottenham, and afterwards of his sister, Mrs. Wakelin, of Tottenham. Afterwards these farms passed to the Wood family, then into the possession of Alfred and Charles Layard, and now are owned by Messrs. Arthur and George Clarke. In 1787 the house and buildings were consumed by fire.
Antletts, otherwise Antleach (called Brick House), and Sauldry Marshes, lying in Pitsea and South Benfleet, were owned by John Fell in 1749. Later Sir James Charles Dalbiac, K.C.B., bought this property, but resold it to Jonathan Wood. In 1860 it was sold by his trustees to Charles Asplin, of Tilbury, and has lately been acquired by the Kynock Company. Upon this farm is very prevalent the Lathyrus Tuberosus, a plant which it seems impossible to eradicate. The flower somewhat resembles the everlasting pea, with a bulb at the root, which is edible, and is said to have been introduced by the Dutch.
Rack Hall, alias Wreck Hall, alias Southchurch Marsh, in the parish of Southchurch, situate at the south-east side of the island (formerly consisting of forty acres), is all third-acre land. It was originally purchased by Ralph Robinson, of Horndon (circa 1770), for 100 guineas. This was resold in 1815 at the Bell Inn, Horndon-on-the-Hill, by William Jeffries, to the grandfather of Daniel Nash, who was owner in 1867, for £1,300. The family had made up their minds to let it go for £800, but the company being somewhat stimulated by sherry, and a competition springing up between Nash and Wilson, of Rochford Hall, the result was as above stated. When the purchase-money was paid at the Lion Inn, Rayleigh, to Jeffries and Charles Robinson, it was deposited in the boots of the recipients, for fear of footpads. The farm took the name of Wreck Hall from the circumstance that Ralph Robinson, purchasing of the underwriters the wreck of the Ajax (which was driven on shore opposite Burgess House at South Shoebury), employed the timbers in the construction of the premises. Knights Wick, situated in North Benfleet and Hadleigh, formerly the property of William Hilton, of Danbury, is now owned by Messrs. Arthur and George Clarke. Small Gains, in Hadleigh and Prittlewell, comprises what in old deeds is called Low Marsh, now better known as Sunken Marsh, and additional land bought of Richard Harrison, now in the possession of Mr. Foster.
Sluice Farm, partly in South Benfleet, is now owned by Charles Beckwith, the proprietor of the "Lobster Smack," the chief of the two inns upon the island. This lies under the wall at Hole Haven, the house of call for unlicensed pilots, who are patronised by those captains objecting to the charges of the Gravesend pilots. There, in the evening, Dutch is frequently the only language spoken, for there the captains of the eel boats love to congregate and smoke their pipes. Germany is also represented, but not to the extent that Holland is, so that it frequently happens visitors might think they had been mysteriously transported to the home of canals and tall trees.
Respecting landowners past and present, the greatest possible interest attaches itself to the name of Henry Hayes, for with an interval of considerably over 230 years we find landowners in Canvey Island of that name. The parallel goes still farther, for the wives, in both instances, were similarly named. The original Henry Hayes, and Elizabeth his wife, lived on the island, acquiring a cottage, garden, etc., and died in 1657, leaving two sons, Thomas and Henry, and three daughters, Mary, Alice, and Elizabeth.
Whether the first Henry Hayes was in any way such a public benefactor as the second, it is impossible to say; no evidence goes to support such an idea. Nothing is more admirable than the work of the later representative of the name. Having achieved the rebuilding of the church and the establishment of the schools, he is to be found working for the erection of a suitable vicarage; later, the boring of the village well—one of the greatest boons to the island, as previously, with few exceptions, one was dependent upon the rain, or, worse still, ditch-water. In this respect many of the people were fastidious, only repairing for their supply to such ditches as were the homes of families of water-rats.
At Brick House there is a spring, but owing to the breaking of the sea-wall and consequent inundations, in January, 1881, it has become brackish.
The present Church, Canvey Island
Serious inundations, killing nearly all the cattle, occurred in 1731 and 1736, besides many of lesser degree.
Although Canvey remained until the last two years practically terra incognita, postal authorities nevertheless recognized the island under appellations such as would puzzle any but the officials of St. Martin's-le-Grand; for instance:
Rev. mr hayes Canibell irland.
To the Vicar of the Parish Church of Convent or Canvy Highland.
The Vicker of Cordey ilient.
Such addresses are now far rarer than formerly, and most probably the days are not far distant when to mention Canvey Island will no longer elicit the question "Where is Canvey ? " for it will be as well known as the neighbouring holiday resorts of Southend and Leigh.
