This is a trip tracing the steps of THE IOWA 5th. Detachment E and the places our great grand father was during the CIVIL WAR.

5-19 - 5-30, 1996


5-19 SUNDAY. Days Inn, I-24, Exit 81, Murfreesboro, TN. Curtis arrived Nashville Airport early at 1:45 p.m. Bags took 30 minutes to arrive. Went out I-24 and stopped for coffee at Waffle House a mile south of Briley Parkway (Used to be Thompson Lane). Talked with 3rd generation local whose grand father had been member of rebel General Bedford Forest unit. Learned that "Morse's Gallery of the Cumberland, 25 Cedar St., opposite the Commercial Hotel, Nashville, Tenn." would have been in down town Nashville on what is now Charlotte Avenue. Asked about 5th Iowa camp ground described by J. Conzett in his memoirs. He agreed it could be along Mill Creek just east of Murfreesboro Pike. In memoirs called "Murfreesboro Dusty Pike." Returned north about a mile and a half on I-24 and turned east on Briley Parkway for about a mile and then north on Murfreesboro Pike to Mill Creek Road on south side of Mill Creek. Went east on Mill Creek road ending up in someone's front yard in about a quarter of a mile. Told resident what we were looking for. Informed area had been used as camp during Civil War. People still find Civil War buckles and mini balls in the fast moving creek. Informed there was a spring S.W. of there near the Shoney's and Hill's Market. Got permission to visit the creek, took slides and video tape of creek. Creek flows rapidly over limestone base. Nice creek. Went back to Murfreesboro Pike, crossed bridge and went east a half-mile to back of

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Curtis with camcorder on Mill Creek just off of Murfreesboro Road in Nashville, Tennessee.

"Millwood Apartments" parking lot where creek turned north. Didn't see any sign of a spring in area; however, the apartments could have been built over it. Drove S.E. on Murfreesboro Pike, noticed railroad paralleled the road on the west. Historical marker at Smyrna, Tenn. said railroad depot was built in 1851 and new depot built in 1873. Railroad was the one guarded by the 5th Iowa in summer of 1863. Historic marker on north side of Murfreesboro on Hwy. 41 said "Army of the Cumberland" June 24, 1863. Moving to Bradyville, 14 miles southeast XXI Corp. (T. L. Crittenton) advanced against minor confederate resistance on Manchester to ronduefo with the rest of the army under cover of Grainger's faint of Shelbyville. This bluffed the Army of Tennessee out of its position in the Duck River heights and caused withdrawal to Chattanooga."  In Murfreesboro for the night. Supper at Shoney's,prepared notes on lap top computer.

5-20 MONDAY. Scottish Inn, I-24 Exit 114, Manchester, TN. Got up at 7:00 a.m. Went to Fortress Rosecrans in Murfreesboro. Fortress built along Stones River and Nashville - Chattanooga Railroad in late Winter and Spring of 1863 as largest earth fortification built during the Civil War. Served as major supply depot for Union troops in Battle of Chattanooga. Able to serve 50,000 troops for 90 days. 14,600 feet of earth works. Photo graphed and video taped all information signs. Drove north on Hwy. 41, then returned to Murfreesboro checking historic markers. Visited Stones River National Battlefield. National cemetery had over 6,100 burials with 2,562 unknown. Cemetery has Union dead from Stones River Battle and area of central Tennessee. Went to Nat'l. Park Service Visitor's Center. Watched Park Service slide show. Interesting, but prior to arrival of 5th Iowa Cavalry from Nashville. Checked cemetery register for names of Carley, Bowland, Craighead, Burdue, Dunn, and Clark. Had 3 Dunns and several Clarks, but all from wrong states. Checked cemetery list of Iowa dead, there were 14 with 9 of them from the 5th Iowa Cavalry from several locations in the state. None were from Co. E. Given copy of list. Clark purchased copy of "The Official Military Atlas of the Civil War" It contains maps of all the battles of the war. Staff very helpful. Located "Silver Springs" just west of Lebanon, TN. Only took pictures of park service sign. Went south on Hwy. 41 a ways into Murfreesboro and checked historical marker re "Army of the Cumberland" and the 14th Corp on June 24, 1863. This may have included the 5th Iowa. Had late lunch at 1:30 p. at Lindy's Cafe right beside the historical marker. Studied map, took a chance on going to Shelbyville, TN., worked out very well. Went south on Hwy. 231, stopped at County Court House and referred to Mr. Paul Parker, County Executive. He wasn't aware of a place name of "Guys Gap" mentioned in the 5th Iowa Historical Sketch and referred us to the "History Room" at the city library. Asked librarian about an old map Mr. Parker said they had, she pulled a 1963 Master's Thesis by Charles Raymond Gunter, Jr. of Univ. of Tennessee from behind desk. It had a note on it not to let it out of sight. Scanned thesis and found reference to Guys Gap, Liberty Gap, and Hoover Gap in just a few minutes. Made copies of cover and pages 93-108. Still not sure of Guy's Gap location, checked 1887 county map in "History Room" and found it right off on "Shelbyville Pike" (Hwy 231) just north of Hwy. 82. Later learned that Guy's Gap was a Union faint for a deployment through Liberty Gap just north of Bell Buckle. This action, importance of which is not widely recognized in Civil War history books, resulted in pushing the Confederate Troops out of Tennessee costing them the loss of control of Northern Alabama, Tennessee, and Kentucky. Depriving them of many of their survival resources. That same week they lost at Vicksburg, Gettesburg, and another location. Hoover's Gap is on Hwy. U.S. 41 just north of Beechgrove, TN. Went north of "Shelbyville Pike" and confirmed location of "Guys Gap" between "Ebb Joyce Rd." and "Springs Rd." to the north. Photographed the cut through the hills looking south past "Springs Rd." Went back south and then east on Hwy. 82 to Bell Buckle, TN. Referred to Mr. Jerry Wayne Smith ("The Blockade Runner," 1029 Bell Buckle Road, Wartrace, TN. 37183: (615) 389-6294) a few miles south of Bell Buckle toward Wartrace as an authority on local Civil War history. He is a "reenactor." Located his home business on a very bad blind curve. Identified it by Confederate flag flying in yard. He was busy fitting a customer in a Confederate uniform in which he would be married in June. His to be wife Brenda from Louisville, KY. was still fighting the Civil War. She said her son-in-law from Indiana was threatening to come in a Union uniform. She wasn't going to have any "Yankees" crashing her wedding. Photographed and taped bride groom in uniform. Sash had same tassels as Lott's GAR uniform. Learned sash is a common component of uniforms even today. Once they left, had warm and informative talk with Jerry W. Smith. He gave each of us a Union Cavalry slug he had recovered from Guy's Gap. He told us an interesting story of gold buried by local Confederate land owners just prior to the Battle of Guy's Gap and only recently recovered by use of metal detectors. There were 52 gold pieces, $5 and $10 pieces. Jerry wants copies of any info. we have on 5th Iowa Cavalry activities in the area. He also said at Wartrace there was a Commercial Hotel, now a private residence, where the Union spy Pauline Cushman was held captive to be hung. It is painted an ugly blue. I recognized the name and realized later she is mentioned on page 58 of the memoirs of Josiah Conzett as having waved to them as they rode through in pursuit of the Confederates. It was due to Union eviction of Confederates that secured her release. However, J. Conzett said he saw her as they went through Shelbyville rather than Wartrace (page 58). He may have been confused about which town it was. The sun was near setting when we left, so Jerry suggested if we only had time for one more stop we should go to Beachgrove, TN. tonight to see the confederate cemetery there. Returned to Bell Buckle and then east on Hwy. 82 to Beachgrove. Located cemetery photographed and taped monument that had statement from Gen. Bedford Forest to his troops after the end of the war. Essentially he told them to forget their grievances and be good citizens. Went south on I-24 getting off at Exit 114 and checked into the Scottish Inn at 7:20 p.m. After supper caught up notes on laptop. Very long, but highly rewarding busy day. Learned a lot. Got to bed after midnight.

5-21 TUESDAY. Scottish Inn, Chattanooga. Got up at 7:00 a.m. After breakfast, gassed truck, 238 miles on trip meter since gassed at Bowling Green. Stopped at Wal-Mart. With Clark driving, went south on I-24 to Exit 152 and southeast on Hwy. 72 along north side of Tennessee River into Alabama to Scottsboro. Got off at first Scottsboro exit on Hwy. 279. Learned Owens Unclaimed Baggage Center (509 Willow Street, Scottsboro, Al. 35768: (205) 259-4930) is on same road just west of the center of town on the south side of the street. Later learned buildings on the north side are their overflow stores. Did a lot of browsing. Signed up for receipt of sales catalog. Drove south through town to Hwy. 72 and stopped at Shoney's for lunch. Went east and then south on Hwy. 35 across river, then east on Hwy 40 and then northeast on Hwy. 71 to Trenton, Georgia. Curtis took over driving at Flat Rock, Alabama. Went southeast out of Trenton on Hwy. 136 climbing up steep mountain to intersect Hwy. 157 which is the "Lookout Mountain Parkway." Noticed truck engine was running a little hot as we climbed the mountain. Went north on Hwy. 157 and guessed at winding our way through the town of Lookout Mountain which wasn't on our map. Stopped at top of "Lookout Mountain Incline Railway" to get directions and confirm where we thought we were. People quite helpful. We asked if they knew of a "Crawfish Springs" at the Battle of Chickamauga and were pleased to hear one of the men say he lived near there. We were assured we would be able to find its location when we got to battlefield. Told not to spend money on seeing the "Battles For Chattanooga Museum," a commercial establishment at the base of the mountain. Confirmed that "Lookout Point," operated by the National Park Service was at end of road in another 3 miles. Went to "Lookout Point" and quickly walked through the park. Didn't notice the Park Headquarters across the street. Immediately located the camera location for the picture of Chattanooga made from Lookout Mountain and published on page 254 in "The Civil War" book by Ken Burns. Using zoom lenses, duplicated the framing of the picture in 35mm and video tape. Went out to "OCHS Museum" on "Lookout Point" but had difficulty locating camera location for pictures taken by Royan M. Linn of men on Lookout Point and published on page 261 of  "The Civil War." Hiked down trail to the west to what we later learned was "Roper's Rock" where a shoulder fell off the rock. View back to east was overgrown with trees and brush; however, there was a rock face that looked similar to the cliff in the picture of U. S. Grant at Lookout Mountain as published by Ken Burns on page 260. We couldn't get the land marks in the photocopy of the picture to line up. A sign back at Lookout Point said that picture had been taken "near by." Clark waited at "Roper's Rock" while Curtis went down a long flight of metal stairs to scout the trail to the east under Lookout Point. >From below Curtis thought he found the point where Royan Linn took his pictures; however, it was part of the area closed off by the Park Service. On returning to "Roper's Rock" Curtis encountered a hiker who turned out to be Mr. Jerry R. Desmond (Curator of Collections, Chattanooga Regional History Museum, 400 Chestnut Street, Chattanooga, Tenn. 37402: work 615-264-3247, home 706-820-4250). Asked him about Lookout Mountain picture we had from Lott's chest and was told it was taken at "Sunset Rock" about 1.1 miles away by trail; however, one could drive near it on "West Brow Road" and hike down a steep incline to get a picture. Without our mentioning it, he started describing popular Civil War pictures taken by Royan Linn in the area and of Gen. Grant. At that point we showed him the photo copies we had of the pictures he was describing. He pointed out that the cliff face the flight of metal stairs passed under was where the picture of Grant had been taken; however, in putting in the stairs, the Park Service had removed a lot of the dirt and fallen rock. Where General Grant had been standing was now about 20 feet out in space in front of us. No wonder we couldn't find his tracks. He also confirmed the point where the Royan Linn pictures were taken was back at Lookout Point at the "OCHS Museum" and had been closed off by the Park Service. Photographed and taped Clark standing as near as he could to where Gen. Grant had stood. Returned to museum at Lookout Point and found the photo location for the Linn pictures. We were up too high on the museum viewing area to duplicate the exact angle of the pictures; however, we got pictures that were quite similar. Started long up hill climb back to the truck. Took pictures of artillery pieces overlooking Chattanooga. We were covered with sweat when we got back to the truck. Left area at 6:30 p.m. EDT and took Hwy. 148 down mountain to Hwy. 41-72 and onto I-24. Continued east to I-75 and got of at Exit 1 (Ringgold Road) to check into Scottish Inn about 7:15 p.m. EDT. Lost an hour due to time change. After supper typed up notes. Another good day, we accomplished everything but getting a picture of "Sunset Rock." We will try to get that picture sometime after we check out the battlefield at Chickamauga.

5-22 WEDNESDAY, Scottish Inn, Chattanooga. Got up at 7:00 a.m. After breakfast loaded only items we would need for the day since we would be at the motel one more night. Went south on I-75 to Georgia Welcome Center at Exit 142 to pick up maps. Continued to next exit (#141) and went west on Hwy. 2A (Battlefield Parkway) through the town of Fort Oglethorpe. Missed sign for Chickamauga-Chattanooga National Military Park at Hwy. 27 and continued west on Hwy. 2 to Hwy. 193 and then turned around to return to junction with Hwy. 27 in Fort Oglethorpe. Went south on Hwy. 27 and soon arrived at Battlefield Visitor's Center. As has been the case so far this trip, the people were unbelievably helpful. Man at information desk, named Hugh Odom started helping us and then got two staff historians to work with us in the library of the facility. They were James H. Ogden III (Historian, Chickamauga-Chattanooga National Military Park, P.O. Box 2128, Ft. Oglethorpe, GA 30742: 706-866-9241, 423-752-5213, FAX 423-752-5215) and Keith Bohannon. Told bullet we got from Guy's Gap in Tenn. was a Spencer and flat bottomed which was characteristic of a carbine round the cavalry would use. It was a 58mm. Learned Crawfish Springs was the name of what is now the town of Chickamauga and that the springs are in a park in the center of town. Confused at first, the 5th Iowa was not listed as a unit that fought at Chickamauga! Pulled Vol. 23 of the Official Records (OR) and determined it didn't have dates that extended to the time of the Battle of Chickamauga. It appeared Vol. 30 was for that period. After James read the J. Conzett memoirs he determined the 5th Iowa Cav. was probably on the "extreme left flank" of the Army of the Cumberland, rather than the battle. It appeared they were probably in the area of Stevenson, AL. a strategically vital railroad depot on the Tenn River, or between there and McMinnville, TN. He said the Battle of Chickamauga was heard as far as 40 miles away and it would have been possible for the 5th Iowa Cav. to have heard it while in that area. He also allowed us to tape record his explanation of the organization of the army at that time so we could better follow the activities of the 5th Iowa Cav. When asked about why there is never a "Company J," he said he had been told the reason was that in old hand writing the letters "I" and "J" were so similar they could be easily confused. To avoid the confusion they never created a "Company J." He suggested we check with the National Archives to see if any of the unit's original records were preserved. They had the register of the Chattanooga National Cemetery and we spent a couple of hours looking through it for 5th Iowa Cav. members. Had to go through the whole list, the names were neither alphabetical nor by state. Only found a few, none were from Co. E. Disappointed to learn that many of the original records of the National Cemeteries had been destroyed when the records were transferred to a new system. They did not have a record of where bodies were recovered before being buried at the National Cemetery and didn't think such records would be available at Marietta either. Learned their records for Marietta were probably more complete than we would find at Marietta. Broke for a late lunch in Ft. Oglethorpe. Returned to Visitor's Center. Clark went through the records for the Marietta National Cemetery while Curtis photographed and video taped around the museum. Clark only found a few 5th Iowa Cav. and we already had the 3 from Co. E. Noted listed grave numbers were different than some of those in the roster of the 5th Iowa Cav. David Conzett is now #6104 E rather than Sec. E, grave 563, William Cousins was the same, Sec. A, grave 320, Andrew Guler is now #2327 C rather than Sec. C, grave PP. Found a Corbin, no Company. Had to go through the whole list looking for 5th Iowa Cav. Marietta records had over 9,000 listings. Listings were alphabetical, but not by state as we found at Stones River National Cemetery. Curtis photographed a Parrot Canon, the entrance to the military park, maps of the battlefield, the list of units in the Battle of Chickamauga, the Spencer and Sharps carbines and the "traveling forge" we had been told about by the reenactor in Tenn. He was ringing wet from sweat. He quickly purchased a large book on Civil War cavalry photographs and a video tape of the Battle of Chickamauga. We got thrown out of the facility at 5:00 p.m. when they locked up. Clark just got done in time. Drove south on Hwy. 27 to the town of Chickamauga and got directions to Crawfish Springs. Very nice springs that flow strong enough to form a wide creek. Photographed springs and signs saying it was the headquarters of the Army of the Cumberland and the 14th Corps. Returned north to Ft. Oglethope and stopped to get film for Clark. Went west on Hwy. 2, north on Hwy. 193 through the town of St. Elmo and back up Lookout Mtn. on the Scenic Hwy. to West Brow Rd. to get picture of Sunset Rock. Didn't see parking area for trail to the rock and had to double back from Point Park. Don't know how we missed it. Hiked down steep trail and got to rock at about 7:00 p.m. There were a number rope climbers on the rocks. Studied area and determined Sunset Rock could not be the rock that was pictured in the photo found in Lott's chest because it wasn't shaped quite right and more importantly the angle and extent of the Tennessee River in the background was wrong. After further study of Lookout Mtn. and the river, determined picture was more likely of Lookout Point from near Roper's Rock. If so, the picture couldn't be taken today because tall trees and other vegetation obscure Lookout Point and the distant river. Climbed trail back to parking lot. It about did both of us in. Quite steep with some large steps to go up. We were soaking wet. Retraced route to Fort Oglethorpe and had late supper at Golden Corral. Returned to motel via. I-75 arriving at 9:20 p.m. Clark took a nap while Curtis showered and typed notes for the day. Another long day, but learned a lot. Disappointed over condition we are likely to find other National Cemetery records in. Got to bed after midnight.

5-23 THURSDAY, Days Inn, Douglasville, Ga. Got up without a wake-up call at 7:30 a.m. This is to be our "relaxed" day after the long days we have put in this week. With Clark driving, went south on I-75 toward Atlanta, GA. Gassed truck at Cartersville, GA. Went west to Kennesaw, GA. at Exit-118. Lost road signs in Kennesaw and stopped at fire station for directions. We were on the right track. Drove to Visitor Center of Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park off of "Old U.S. 41." Talked with man at desk and he referred us to Mrs. Kim Young. At first we were told the 5th Iowa Cav. had been at the Kennesaw Mountain battle and were involved in the charge on "Cheatham Hill," then they realized the list of military units they had was for troops involved in the Battle of Atlanta rather than just Kennesaw Mtn. They then looked in "A Compendium of the War of the Rebellion," Vol. III for the Regimental Histories of the 5th Iowa and 4th Mich. Cavalry. Provided us with copies of pages 1161-62 and 1271 for the 5th Iowa and 4th Mich. and confirmed the 5th Iowa was not at Kennesaw Mtn. They also had the "Roster and Record of Iowa Soldiers in the War of the Rebellion," Vol. IV and gave us a copy of page 887 with Lot H. Carley on it. They didn't have any info. on the National Cemetery system but gave us direction to the Marietta National Cemetery. They didn't know if the Confederate Prison Camps had been preserved at Savannah or Millin, GA. However, they gave us a brochure for Fort Pulaski Nat'l. Monument (Superintendent, Fort Pulaski Nat'l. Monument, P.O. Box 30757, Savannah, Georgia 31410-0757: (912) 786-5787) where we might get some info. They didn't think we would find much in relation to the McCook Raid at Lovejoy Station, Ga. Also gave us the Park Service brochure for Andersonville Nat'l. Historic Site and one for the walking tour of Marietta, Ga. that confirmed the Kennesaw House was Gen. Sherman's Headquarters during the Battle of Atlanta. Discussed books on Andersonville, told one of the best was "Death Before Dishonor" by Eugene Forbes of the 4th New Jersey Infantry. Informed them of W. Marvel book which they knew of but had not seen. Confirmed that book "CO.AYTCH" by Sam R. Watkins was a good account of the life of a Confederate soldier. We had been told of it by Mr. J. Smith at Wartrace, TN. Bought copies of both books, $24.95 and $7.95 respectively. Again we received all assistance requested and then some. Went right on Old U.S. 41 and southeast on Kennesaw Ave. to Marietta, Ga. Went to Kennesaw House and had lunch at restaurant. Museum on upper floor closed. Photographed Kennesaw House. Drove to Marietta National Cemetery at corner of Cole St. and Washington Ave. in southeast Marietta. Grave registration books and cemetery maps were located in a little shelter outside the cemetery office. While we were confirming locations of the four 5th Iowa Cav. graves a Mr. Bobby Paul (Cemetery Representative, Marietta National Cemetery, 500 Washington Ave., Marietta, GA 30060: 404-428-5631) walked by on his way to the office and asked if he could assist us. Told him we knew where to find who we were looking for; however, we would like to know if there is a record of where in Georgia the bodies were recovered for burial at Marietta. At first he referred us to the Cobb County Library a block away and then he said after thinking about it he might be able to help. Went to office and he checked a file that had 5X7 cards with info. on each grave. It had exactly what we were looking for, whole process took less than 5 minutes. Big thing was that Andrew Guler was recovered from Carrolton, Georgia. This is probably correct, since they had the correct info. that David Conzett was recovered at Newnan, GA. where he died 7/31/64. William A. Cousins died at Marietta, GA. while L. P. Corlin died at Newnan, GA.: however, no date of death was available. It most likely was the same as D. Conzett. Easily located and photographed the 4 grave stones. Also photographed the entrance to the cemetery. Discovered some stones had the grave number on the front with the name, while some had the number on the back. While locating grave of A. Guler we talked with 4 men on the ground crew. Learned stones are made of marble or granite, are 42 inches long with 18 inches in the ground. They are cleaned by a high pressure water system from time to time. It is a constant struggle resetting the stones to keep them straight and all at the same height. Left cemetery at 4:00 p.m. Went east on Hwy. 120 to I-75, south to I-285 and west on I-20 to Exit 10 at Douglasville, Ga. where we checked into the Days Inn. In motel by 5:00 p.m. Our shortest day yet. After supper called Dr. Kerry Elliott (P.O. Box 224, Newnan, GA. 30264: (770) 251-3743) to confirm he had received the material I mailed and if we could visit with him on Monday. He had the material and found it quite interesting. He felt Lott probably was captured at "Rock Mills, Ga." rather than "Rockville" as stated in his diary and military records. He also felt Lott's reference to "Liberty Mill" was probably "Liberty Hill." He knew where the latter was and felt it fit the march Lott made to LaGrange. Told him we had learned A. Guler body recovered at Carrolton, GA. Discussed our planned travel tomorrow through area of Palmetto and Lovejoy to Andersonville. He didn't think we would find many historical markers in the area. He didn't say it, but it appears they may not be interested in putting up markers for Union activities. He said he had a friend preparing a book on Sherman's Cavalry that should be out later this year and that will provide more detail about the McCook-Stoneman Raid. He couldn't advise us on motels near Andersonville. Arranged to call him Sunday to schedule a meeting for Monday. Caught up notes.


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