Forward Index Ch 2
I dispatched an express this morning to Captain Lewis at St. Louis. All our provisions, goods, and equipage on board of a boat of 22 oars [party], a large pirogue of 71 oars [in which 8 French], a second pirogue of 6 oars [soldiers], complete with sails, &c. Men completed with powder cartridges and 100 balls each, all in health and readiness to set out. Boats and everything complete, with the necessary stores of provisions and such articles of merchandise as we thought ourselves authorized to procure-though not as much as I think necessary for the multitude of Indians through which we must pass on our road across the continent.
Rained the fore part of the day. I determined to go as far as St. Charles, a French village seven leagues up the Missouri, and wait at that place until Captain Lewis could finish the business which he was obliged to attend to at St. Louis,, and join me by land from that place (24 miles). I calculated that if any alterations in the loading of the vessels or other changes were necessary, they might be made at St. Charles.
I set out at 4 o'clock, P.M., in the presence of many of the neighboring inhabitants and proceeded under a gentle breeze up the Missouri to the upper point of the first island, 4 miles, and camped on the island.
It rained during the greater part of last night and continued until 7 o'clock A.M., after which the party proceeded. The barge ran foul there several times on logs, and in one instance it was with much difficulty they could get her off. Happily no injury was sustained, though the barge was several minutes in imminent danger. This was caused by her being too heavily laden in the stern. Persons accustomed to the navigation of the Missouri, and the Mississippi also, below the mouth of this river, uniformly take the precaution to load their vessels heaviest in the bow when they ascend the stream, in order to avoid the danger incident to running foul of the concealed timber, which lies in great quantities in the beds of these rivers.
Note: The commanding officer is fully assured that every man of his detachment will have a true respect for his own dignity and not make it necessary for him to leave St. Charles for a more retired situation [The orderly book was a record kept in each command of all written orders].
A fair day. Compelled to punish for misconduct. Several Kickapoo Indians visit me today. George Drouilliard arrived.
A sergeant and four men of the party destined for the Missouri Expedition will convene at 11 o'clock today on the quarterdeck of the boat and form themselves into a court-martial, to hear and determine (in behalf of the captain), the evidences adduced against William Warner & Hugh Hall, for being absent last night without leave, contrary to orders; and John Collins, first for being absent without leave; second, for behaving in an unbecoming manner at the ball last night; third, for speaking in a language last night after his return tending to bring into disrespect the orders of the commanding officer.
We set out early, ran on a log, and were detained one hour, proceeded the course of last night two miles to the mouth of a creek on the starboard side, called Osage Woman's River, about 30 yards wide, opposite a large island and a [American] settlement. On this creek 30 or 40 families are settled.
Stopped about one mile above for Captain Lewis, who had ascended the cliff which is at said cave, three hundred feet high, hanging over the waters. The water excessively swift today. We encamped below a small island in the middle of the river. Sent out two hunters. One killed a deer.
This evening we examined the arms and ammunition. Found those men's arms in the pirogue in bad order. A fair evening. Captain Lewis near falling from the pinnacles of rocks, 300 feet. He caught at 20 feet.
Camped at the mouth of a creek called Riviere la Charrette, above a small French village of seven houses and as many families settled at this place to be convenient to hunt and trade with the Indians. Here we met M. Loisel, immediately down from the Cedar Island, in the country of the Sioux, 400 leagues up. He gave us a good deal of information.
At 1 o'clock we brought to, two chaussies, one loaded with furs and peltries, the other with buffalo grease and tallow. We purchased 300 pounds of grease; and, finding that old Mr. Dorion was of the party, we questioned him until it was too late to go further.
Concluding to take old Mr. Dorion back as far as the Sioux nation, with a view to get some of their chiefs to visit the President of the United States-this man being a very confidential friend of those people, he having resided with the nation twenty-odd years.
George Drouilliard, our hunter, and one man came in with two deer and a bear, also a young horse they had found in the prairie. This horse had been in the prairie a long time and is fat. I suppose he has been left by some war party against the Osages. The party is much afflicted with boils, and several have the dysentery.
Ordered. A court-martial will sit this day at 11 o'clock, to consist of five members, for the trial of John Collins and Hugh Hall, confined on charges exhibited against them by Sergeant Floyd, agreeable to the Articles of War.... John Collins charged with getting drunk on his post this morning out of whiskey put under his charge as sentinel, and for suffering Hugh Hall to draw whiskey out of the said barrel intended for the party.
To this charge the prisoner pleaded "not guilty."
The court, after mature deliberation on the evidence adduced, &c., are of opinion the prisoner is guilty of the charge exhibited against him, and do therefore sentence him to receive one hundred lashes on his bare back.
Hugh Hall was brought before the court charged with taking whiskey out of a keg this morning, which whiskey was stored on the bank (and under the charge of the guard), contrary to all order, rule, or regulation.
To this charge the prisoner pleaded guilty.
The court find the prisoner guilty and sentence him to receive fifty lashes on his bare back.
Ushered in the day by a discharge of one shot from our bow piece, proceeded on, passed the mouth of a bayou leading from a large lake on the S.S., which has the appearance of being once the bend of the river, and reaches parallel for several miles. We came to on the L.S. to refresh ourselves [the abbreviation "S.S." stands for "starboard," or the right-hand side when one is facing forward on a ship. "L.S." means "larboard," or left-hand side]. Joseph Fields got bitten by a snake, and was quickly doctored with bark by Captain Lewis.
We passed a creek twelve yards wide, on the L.S., coming out of an extensive prairie reaching within two hundred yards of the river. As this creek has no name, and this being the Fourth of July, the day of the Independence of the United States, we called it "Fourth of July 1804 Creek." We dined on corn. Captain Lewis walked on shore above this creek and discovered a high mound from the top of which he had an extensive view. Three paths came together at the mound. We saw great numbers of goslings today which were nearly grown. The lake is clear and contains great quantities of fish and geese and goslings. This induced me to call it Gosling Lake. A small creek and several springs run into the lake on the east side from the hills. The land on that side is very good.
Set out early. Passed some swift water which obliged us to draw up by ropes. A sand bar at the point, opposite a beautiful prairie on the S. side, called St. Michael. Those prairies on the river have very much the appearance of farms from the river, divided by narrow strips of woodland, which woodland is situated on the runs leading to the river. Passed a bluff of yellow clay above the prairie. Saw a large rat on the bank. Killed a wolf. One man very sick-struck with the sun. Captain Lewis bled him and gave niter, which has revived him much.
Set out early. Passed a small creek and two small islands on the S.S. Five men sick today with violent headache, &c. We made some arrangements as to provisions and messes. Came to for dinner at the lower point of a very large island situated near the S.S. After a delay of two hours we passed a narrow channel 45 to 80 yards wide five miles to the mouth of Nodaway River.
In order to ensure a prudent and regular use of all provisions issued to the crew of the bateaux in future, as also to provide for the equal distribution of the same among the individuals of the several messes, the commanding officers do appoint the following persons to receive, cook, and take charge of the provisions which may from time to time be issued to their respective messes, viz., John B. Thompson to Sergeant Floyd's mess, William Warner to Sergeant Ordway's mess, and John Collins to Sergeant Pryor's mess.
These Superintendents of Provision are held immediately responsible to the commanding officers for a judicious consumption of the provision which they receive; they are to cook the same for their several messes in due time, and in such manner as is most wholesome and best calculated to afford the greatest proportion of nutriment; in their mode of cooking they are to exercise their own judgment. They shall also point out what part, and what proportion of the mess provisions are to be consumed at each stated meal, i.e., morning, noon, and night. Nor is any man at any time to take or consume any part of the mess provisions without the privity, knowledge, and consent of the superintendent. The superintendent is also held responsible for all the cooking utensils of his mess. In consideration of the duties imposed by this order on Thompson, Warner, and Collins, they will in future be exempt from guard duty, though they will still be held on the roster for that duty, and their regular tour shall be performed by someone of their respective messes; they are exempted also from pitching the tents of the mess, collecting firewood, and forks, poles, &c. for cooking and drying such fresh meat as may be furnished them; those duties are to be also performed by the other members of the mess.
One man sent back to the river we passed last night to blaze a tree with a view to notify the party on shore of our passing. Set out and passed the head of the island which was situated opposite to our camp last night-a sand bar at the head. Opposite this island a creek or bayou comes in from a large pond on the starboard side. As our flanking party saw great numbers of pike in this pond, I have laid it down with that name annexed. At 8 o'clock the wind shifted from the N.E. to the S.W. and it commenced raining. At six miles, passed the mouth of the creek on the L.S. called Montain's Creek. About two miles above are some cabins where our bowman and several Frenchmen camped two years ago. Passed an island on the S.S. in a bend of the river opposite some cliffs on the L.S. The wind shifted to the N.W. opposite this island, and on the L. side Wolf River comes in. This river is about 60 yards wide and heads with the waters of the Kansas, and is navigable for pirogues "some distance up." Camped at a point on the L.S. opposite the head of the island. Our party was encamped on the opposite side. Their not answering our signals caused us to suspect the persons camped opposite to us were a war party of Sioux. We fired the bow piece to alarm the party on shore, all prepared to oppose if attacked.
Set out early this morning and crossed the river with a view to see who the party was that camped on the other side. We soon discovered them to be our men. Proceeded on past a prairie on the L.S. at 4 miles. Passed a creek L.S. called Pape's Creek after a man who killed himself at its mouth. This creek is 15 yards wide. Dined on an island called Solomon's Island. Delayed three hours on this island to recruit the men. Opposite on the L.S. is a beautiful bottom plain of about 2,000 acres covered with wild rye and potatoes (ground apple), intermixed with the grass.
Set out early. Passed a willow island in a bend on the S.S. Back of this island a creek comes in, called by the Indians Tarkio. I went on shore above this creek and walked up parallel with the river about half a mile distant. The bottom I found low and subject to overflow. Still further out, the undergrowth and vines were so thick that I could not get through with ease. After walking about three or four miles, I observed a fresh horse track; where he had been feeding I turned my course to the river and pursued the track, and found him on a sand beach. This horse probably had been left by some party of Ottawas, hunters who wintered or hunted in this quarter last fall or winter. I joined the party on a large sand island immediately opposite the mouth of Nemaha River, at which place they had camped. This island is sand, about half of it covered with small willows of two different kinds, one narrow and the other a broad leaf. Several hunters sent out today on both sides of the river. Seven deer killed today-Drouilliard killed six of them. Made some lunar observations this evening.
Concluded to delay here today with a view of taking equal altitudes and making observations as well as refreshing our men, who are much fatigued. After an early breakfast I, with five men in a pirogue, ascended the riverNemaha about three miles to the mouth of a small creek on the lower side. Here I got out of the pirogue. After going to several small mounds in a level plain, I ascended a hill on the lower side. On this hill, several artificial mounds were raised; from the top of the highest of those mounds I had an extensive view of the surrounding plains, which afforded one of the most pleasing prospects I ever beheld: under me a beautiful river of clear water about 80 yards wide, meandering through a level and extensive meadow, as far as I could see-the prospect much enlivened by the few trees and shrubs which border the bank of the river, and the creeks and runs falling into it. The bottom land is covered with grass about 41/2 feet high, and appears as level as a smooth surface. The second bottom [the upper land] is also covered with grass and rich weeds and flowers, interspersed with copses of the Osage plum, on the rising lands. Small groves of trees are seen, with numbers of grapes and a wild cherry resembling the common wild cherry, only larger, and growing on a small bush on the tops of those hills in every direction. I observed artificial mounds (or as I may more justly term graves) which to me is a EM evidence of this country being once thickly settled. (The Indians of the Missouris still keep up the custom of burying their dead on high ground.) After a ramble of about two miles, I returned to the pirogue and descended down the river. Gathered some grapes, nearly ripe. On a sandstone bluff about 1/4 of a mile from its mouth on the lower side, I observed some Indian marks. Went to the rock which jutted over the water and marked my name 8 and the day of the month and year. Tried a man for sleeping on his post, and inspected the arms, ammunition, &c., of the party. Found all complete. Took some lunar observations. Three deer killed today.
A court-martial consisting of the two commanding officers will convene this day at one o'clock, P.M., for the trial of such prisoners as may be brought before them. One of the court will act as judge advocate.
The commanding officers, Captains M. Lewis and W. Clark, constituted themselves a court-martial for the trial of such prisoners as are guilty of capital crimes, and under the rules and articles of war punishable by death.
Alexander Willard was brought forward, charged with "lying down and sleeping on his post while a sentinel, on the night of the 11th instant." (By John Ordway, sergeant of the guard.)
To this charge the prisoner pleads guilty of lying down, and not guilty of going to sleep.
The court, after duly considering the evidence adduced, are of the opinion that the prisoner Alexander Willard is guilty of every part of the charge exhibited against him. It being a breach of the rules and articles of war (as well as tending to the probable destruction of the party) do sentence him to receive one hundred lashes on his bare back, at four different times in equal proportion; and order that the punishment commence this evening at sunset, and continue to be inflicted, by the guard, every evening until completed.
Set out at sunrise, and proceeded on under a gentle breeze. At two miles, passed the mouth of a small river on the S.S. called by the Indians Tarkio. A channel running out of the river three miles above (which is now filled up with sand) runs into this creek, and formed an island, called St. Josephs. Several sand bars parallel to each other above. In the first bend to the left is situated a beautiful and extensive plain, covered with grass resembling timothy, except the seed which resembles flaxseed. This plain also abounds in grapes of different kinds, some nearly ripe. I killed two goslings nearly grown. Several others killed and caught on shore, also one old goose with pinfeathers. She could not fly. At about 12 miles, passed an island situated in a bend on the S.S.-above this island is a large sand bar covered with willows. The wind from the south. Camped on a large sand bar making out from the L side, opposite a high, handsome prairie, the hills about 4 or 5 miles on starboard side.
Some hard showers of rain this morning prevented our setting out until seven o'clock. At half-past seven, the atmosphere became suddenly darkened by a black and dismal-looking cloud. At the time we were in a situation not to be bettered, near the upper point of the sand island, on which we lay, and [on] the opposite shore, the bank was falling in and lined with snags as far as we could see down. In this situation the storm, which passed over an open plain from the N.E., struck the oar boat on the starboard quarter, and would have thrown her up on the sand island dashed to pieces in an instant, had not the party leaped out on the leeward side, and kept her off with the assistance of the anchor and cable, until the storm was over. The waves washed over her windward side and she must have filled with water if the lockers, which are covered with tarpaulins, had not thrown off the water and prevented any quantity getting into the bilge of the boat. In this situation we continued about 40 minutes, when the storm suddenly ceased and the river became instantaneously as smooth as glass.
The two pirogues, during this storm, were in a similar situation with the boat about half a mile above. The wind shifted to the S.E., and we sailed up past a small island situated on the S.S., and dined, and continued two hours, men examined their arms. About a mile above this island we passed a small trading fort on the S.S., where Mr. Bennet of St. Louis traded with the Otos and Pawnees two years. I went on shore to shoot some elk on a sand bar to the L.S. I fired at one but did not get him. Several men unwell with boils, felons, &c. The river falls a little.
A heavy fog this morning prevented our setting out before seven o'clock. At nine I took two men and walked on the L.S. I crossed three beautiful streams of running water heading into the prairies. On those streams the land very fine, covered with pea vine and rich weed. The high prairies are also good land, covered with grass, entirely void of timber, except what grows on the water. I proceeded on through those prairies several miles to the mouth of a large creek on the L.S. called Little Nemaha. This is a small river.
A fair morning. Set a party to look for timber for oars; two parties to hunt. At eleven o'clock sent off George Drouilliard and Peter Cruzat with some tobacco to invite the Otos if at their town, and Pawnees if they saw them, to come and talk with us at our camp, &c., &c. (At this season, the Indians on this river are in the prairies hunting the buffalo, but some signs of hunters near this place and the plains being on fire near their towns induce a belief that they-this nation- have returned to get some green corn or roasting ears.) Raised a staff, sunned and dried our provisions, &c. I commence copying a map of the river below to send to the President, United States. Five deer killed today. One man with a tumor 2 on his breast. Prepared our camp. The men put their arms in order. Wind hard this afternoon from the N.W.
A fair day. The wind blows hard from the south. The breezes, which are very frequent in this part of theMissouri, are cool and refreshing. Several hunters out today, but, as game of all kinds is scarce, only two deer were brought in. I am much engaged drawing off a map. Captain Lewis also much engaged in preparing papers to send back by a pirogue, which we intended to send back from the River Platte. Observations at this place makes the latitude 41� 3' 19" North.
This evening Goodrich caught a white catfish, its eyes small and tail much like that of a dolphin.
The wind blustering and hard from the south all day, which blew the clouds of sand in such a manner that I could not complete my plan in the tent. The boat rolled in such a manner that I could do nothing in that, and was compelled to go to the woods and combat the mosquitoes. I opened the tumor of a man, on the left breast, which discharged half a pint.
Five beaver caught near the camp, the flesh 3 of which we made use of. This evening we found very pleasant. Only one deer killed today. The country back from camp on the S.S. is a bottom about 5 miles wide-one-half the distance woods and the balance plain high and dry. The opposite side, a high hill-about 170 foot-rock foundation covered with timber. Back and below is a plain.
Sent a Frenchman, La Liberte, with the Indian to Otos' camp to invite the Indians to meet us on the river above. A dark, rainy morning; wind from the W.N.W., rained all the last night. Set out at 5 o'clock opposite the island-the bend to the right or S.S. within 20 feet of Indian Knob Creek. The water of this creek is 5 feet higher than that of the river. Past the island we stopped to dine under some high trees near the high land on the L.S. In a few minutes, caught three very large catfish, one nearly white. Those fish are in great plenty on the sides of the river and very fat. A quart of oil came out of the surplus fat of one of those fish.
Set out this morning early. Proceeded on to a clear open prairie on the L.S. on a rise of about 70 feet higher than the bottom, which is also a prairie (both forming bluffs to the river) of high grass and plum bush, grapes, &c., and situated above high water. In a small grove of timber at the foot of the rising ground, between those two prairies, and below the bluffs of the high prairie, we came to and formed a camp, intending to wait the return of the Frenchman and Indians. The white horse which we found near the Kansas River died last night.
Posted out our guard, and sent out four men. Captain Lewis and I went up the bank and walked a short distance in the high prairie. This prairie is covered with grass ten or twelve inches in height; soil of good quality; and at the distance of about a mile further back, the country rises about 80 or 90 feet higher, and is one continued plain as far as can be seen. From the bluff on the second rise immediately above our camp, the most beautiful prospect of the river, up and down, and the country opposite, presented itself, which I ever beheld.
A fair day. Three hunters out. Took meridian altitude, made the latitude 41� 18' 1 5/10"N. R. and Jo. Fields returned to camp; they killed three deer. The horses strayed off last night. Drouilliard killed a buck, one inch of fat on the ribs. R. and Jo. Fields returned without any meat, having been in pursuit of the horses. The Indians not yet arrived. Caught a young beaver alive which is already quite tame. Caught a buffalo fish. The evening very cool, the mosquitoes are yet troublesome.
A fair morning. Dispatched two men after the horses lost yesterday. One man back to the place from which the messenger was sent for the Otos, to see if any Indians were, or had been, there since our departure. He returned and informed that no person had been there since we left it. The prairie which is situated below our camp is above the high-water level and rich, covered with grass from 5 to 8 feet high, interspersed with copses of hazel, plums, currants, like those of the U.S.
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