EMIL FRETZ TELLS
OF EARLY DALLAS
________
CAME TO TOWN DEC.
3, 1870,
WITH 26 MEMBERS OF
SWISS COLONY.
_________
MANY SORRY 'SHACKS
_________
First Impression
of Texas in
Pioneer Days Was That of
Plenty of Room.
BY W. S. ADAIR
EMIL FRETZ
"I was a small
boy when I arrived in Dallas with the Swiss colony Dec. 3, 1870,"
said Emil Fretz, 711 Liberty street. "There were twenty-seven
of us in the party. Ben Long, a native of Switzerland, who had
come to the United States some years before and who had settled
in Dallas, was the cause of our coming. He visited Switzerland
in the summer of 1870, and fed his old friends and neighbors
on such glowing accounts of Texas and Dallas, that they all wanted
to pull up stakes and come to the new world. Mr. Long was
a success in every way in which he tried himself out, but from
what I knew of him, I am inclined to think he would have shown
most respendently as an immigration agent. But, the wildest
pictures the most imaginative of our party could make of his
representations of Dallas were beggarly, in comparison with the
eventual reality. He knew enough of the world to enable
him to foresee clearly that the development of the vast resources
of Texas was only a matter of time, and that the big State was
the very place for those of his thrifty countrymen who wished
to better their condition.
Plenty of Room in Texas.
"Our first impression of Texas was
that of plenty of room, an impression that is always exhilarating,
as suggesting the possibility of unlimited expansion. But,
the village of Dallas, physically viewed, did not fill us with
enthusiasm and cause us to engage in thanksgiving exercises to
celebrate our arrival. But, we were reassured by the heartiness
of the reception the people gave us. Among those who welcomed
us, and afterward helped us in our struggles and consoled us
in our distresses, were Jacob Nussbaumer, Henry Boll, Henry Bohny,
Adolph Frick and John Loupot, who had come over with the French
colony some years in advance of us; and, A. J. and William Ross,
Capt. W. H. Gaston, Samuel Blake, Jack Smith, Capt. Swindells,
editor of the Herald, and other native Americans, who had settled
here. There never lived better neighbors than these men
and their excellent families, and I wish to include with them
the people generally who lived in Dallas at that time. The
members of the Swiss colony and their descendants can never forget
them. Of the twenty-seven members constituting the Swiss
colony, seven still survive. They are Mrs. L. Wagner, Charles
Fretz, Mrs. Herman Mueller and her sister, Miss Renle; John Hess
and myself, of Dallas, and Jacob Waespi, of San Antonio.
"In 1870,
Dallas was a collection of sorry shacks on a sandy foundation
around the courthouse square. The courthouse was a one-story
brick, surrounded by a board fence and a grove of locust trees.
Many men, ignoring houses, slept on or in blankets under
the trees and the stars in the courthouse yard. In the
morning, they would roll up their blankets and store them for
the day in the business houses in the neighborhood. Several
men, who afterward became prominent, thus passed the nights in
early days. A briefless lawyer, who later headed the legal
profession in the State, used to leave his blanket during the
day in my barber shop on the south side of the square and come
after it at bedtime. In 1870, there was an old-fashioned
rail fence along the east side of Akard street, from Elm street
south, with a corn field east of it. Elm street was open,
but the thoroughfare was the White Rock road and not Elm street.
There was also a fence along the north side of Elm street
from Akard street to Lamar, and likewise, a corn field, north
of it. The land on the south side of Elm street was owned
and occupied by Jack Smith, whose dwelling was in the middle
of the block, between Elm street and the St. George Hotel. The
home of Mr. Murphy, the pioneer merchant, was in the E. M. Kahn
block. There was a grove of trees in the northeast corner
of Mr. Murphy's pasture, now occupied by the National Bank of
Commerce, which was the pleasure park of the village. I
attended several picnics there. There were no improvements
on the St. George Hotel block. A blacksmith shop, or foundry,
occupied the ground at the southwest corner of Main and Poydras
streets, where the barber shop now is. But, even in the
earliest days, we were not without hints of something doing on
a large scale. Cattle moving from the regions south of
Dallas to Kansas crossed the river at the Dallas ford. One
great drove after another traversed the main street of the village.
Often, when the river was up, numerous herds were held
on the west side for the waters to subside. Sometimes,
they were stacked up clear into Ellis County. Many cattle
were drowned in attempting to swim the river.
Stage Coaches.
"There was no bridge across the
river, but the stone abutments of a former bridge that had been
carried away by a freshet in the river, still were standing to
mark the enterprise of the pioneer merchants. The river
was crossed by means of a ferry boat, owned by Alex Cockrell,
and operated by a negro, who had once been his slave. The
ferryman hung up a horn and a bell on the west side of the river
and those wishing to be set across, blew the horn or rang the
bell as a signal to the loafing negro that there was something
doing. Terry's Mill was at the east end of the viaduct,
and Michel's brickyard on the river bank, between Houston and
Jefferson streets. The Crutchfield House and the St. Charles
Hotel entertained the traveling public. All travel was
by stage coaches, which regularly came and went over all the
roads and trails. The stage driver always sounded a full-lunged
blast on his crooked horn as he entered a town, but I never knew
why, since everybody knew about when he would arrive, and was
looking out for him, the stage being the only medium for the
transportation of news from the outside world.
Waespi and His Watch.
"A two-story concrete building,
erected by Mr. Moullard on Jefferson street, facing the courthouse
in 1871, was of as much importance at the time as the first skyscraper
was in more recent years. Before the concrete could dry,
there came a blue norther, freezing the water in the concrete
and disintegrating the solid substance of it to such an extent,
that when the thaw came, the building collapsed. Jacob
Waespi, a carpenter, and other mechanics, were at work in the
building, putting the finishing touches to it, when the walls
began to behave in an uncanny way. The workmen got out
in time, Mr. Waespi, with such precipitation, that he forgot
his coat and vest. A fine hand-made gold watch, which he
had brought from Switzerland, was crushed, along with his coat
and vest, beneath the load of collapsed concrete. He never
has, to this day, become reconciled to the loss of his watch.
There were not exactly giants in those days, but there
were some monster alligators in the river. In the spring
of 1872, one of these ill-constructed creatures was captured
at the bend of the river, just above the Dallas brewery plant.
It measured ten feet in length. I think the men roped
it. At all events, it was brought to town alive and in
chains. Ben Long bought the saurian, had it mounted and
placed as a sign in front of his grocery store, on Main street,
between Market and Jefferson streets. I have no theory
as to why the alligators quit the upper Trinity. Perhaps,
the sewage of Dallas and Fort Worth had something to do with
their going.
Boom Strikes the Village.
"The coming of the railroads in
1872 and 1873 started the village on a boom. A number of
business firms, at once, moved to Dallas from Corsicana, and
men with money, or its equivalent, abilities and energy, came
from all over the country, and along with them, the usual army
of small-fry adventurers to be found in any hurrah frontier town
of fifty years ago. With a view of bringing the town up
to date and putting it in line to grow with the country, the
people elected Ben Long Mayor in 1872. One of the first
moves was to give the merchants fire protection. A proposition
to purchase fire-fighting apparatus was dashed by the consideration
that such machinery would be useless without water. The
problem was, at length, solved by excavating four cisterns for
storing water. These reservoirs were made under the ground
on Jefferson street at Elm and Main, and on Market street at
Main and Elm. In the meantime, a Salsbey engine, the best
made at the time, was delivered. Sam Crossley was employed
as engineer. When the cisterns were completed, and engine
was limbered up, the river did not have water enough in it to
try the engine out. But, after a weary wait of two months,
a heavy rain made the river bank-full. The city had hose
enough to reach from the river to Jefferson street. Crossley
first filled the two cisterns on Jefferson street, and then pumped
the water out of these into the cisterns on Market street, after
which, he went back and refilled the cisterns on Jefferson. When
a fire occurred, the firemen were at their row's end when they
had exhausted the water in the cisterns. Crossley was the only
member of the department on the pay roll. The rest were
the business and professional men, who served in their own interest,
or for the glory of it. The worst early-day fires resulted
when the people would periodically fire the variety theater buildings.
These places were the resorts of the most depraved characters
in the country, whose carryings-on would, now and then, reach
such a scandalous pitch, that the better class people considered
it an act of patriotic vandalism to bribe some good man to set
fire to the theaters. Such fires usually occurred between
1 and 2 o'clock in the morning. The variety theaters were
on the north side of Main street between Market and Jefferson.
All the buildings on the block were cheap frame or board
shacks, and when one of them caught fire, the rest usually were
included in the conflagration. The variety theater block
was reduced to a heap of ashes twice, if not three times.
In 1873 or 1874,
a company headed by W. C. Connor built the first waterworks,
at Browder Spring, now included in the City Park. The company
erected a standpipe, high embossed against the sky, at Main and
Harwood streets, where the municipal building now is. By
way of providing the rising town with amusements more elevated
than the saloons, variety theaters and gambling halls afforded,
Mayor Long developed Long's Lake. By a dam across the valley,
he impounded a considerable body of water. He purchased
a small steamboat on the river, and, taking it to pieces, hauled
the pieces to the lake, and there reassembled them. But,
the first excursion the boat made, there was such a rush of passengers
as to sink the craft to the guards. It stuck in the mud,
making it necessary to get the excursionists ashore by means
of a small, oared boat. The steamer was never again floated.
I think Mayor Long removed the engines and left the timbers
to rot in the mud. But, without boating, the lake was,
for years, a popular pleasure resort.
Yellow Fever Scare.
"In 1873, came the yellow-fever
scare. Refugees from Louisiana, where the fever raged,
were invading Texas in shoals. As soon as Mayor Long ascertained
what was bringing so many Louisianans to town, he grabbed a shotgun
and proceeded to Mesquite, then the terminus of the Texas &
Pacific Railroad, to halt them. At the same time, he had
all the newcomers in town isolated and held for developments.
No one arriving at Mesquite from the east was permitted
to proceed in any direction until he had performed quarantine.
A few persons in Dallas had the fever in a mild form, but
no deaths occurred. Viewed from this distance, it is remarkable
that we escaped an epidemic of the fever, for the town was far
from being, what is now termed healthful. It was without
sewerage system, and the majority of the population simply defied
all the laws of health. Ice was scarce, and not to be had
with any regularity. There were swarms of flies and mosquitoes,
and no screens to prevent them from streaming through the doors
and windows. I question if the people of today could endure
a meal, and at the same time, fight the flies as he had to fight
them fifty years ago. The invention of the country worked
over time to devise a fan that would keep the flies away. I
invented one myself, and I believed, and was told, that it would
be my fortune. But, about the time I got it to going, here
came the electric fan, and, almost simultaneously, window and
door screens, either of which would have been fatal to my dreams. Jacob
Waespi bought the right to manufacture and sell window and door
screen in Dallas county, and dreamed of wealth, but before he
could get his plant in operation, opposition set up in a dozen
places.
"About the last exploit of the Sam
Bass gang of bandits in this part of the country was to steal
four fine horses from Gaston & Works' livery stable on the
southwest corner of Commerce and Houston streets. Gaston
& Work used these spanking prancers to draw the bus between
the hotels and the railroad stations. At daybreak one morning,
the bandits suddenly appearing, overpowered the few stable hands
who happened to be astir at that early hour, and led away the
horses. Soon after that, Bass was killed at Round Rock."
Mr. Fretz has been a member of the City
Park Board for twenty years, and has served as vice president
of it for the last six years.
- November 23, 1924,
The Dallas Morning News,
Sec. III, p. 11
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