
Chapter XXVI.
Karachi. |
THE 1st of January 1895 found the flagship alongside the mole at Karachi, one of the best ports for its size in India. In some respects Karachi is a long way ahead of Bombay, for ships of deep draught cannot lie alongside the jetty at the latter port unless in the docks. In fact, Bombay is a very much overrated harbour, and in the south-west monsoon it is no port at all, whereas Karachi is at all times secure, and sheltered from all winds, though the accommodation is limited. The town is situated five miles from the port, and a railway and tramway connect the two. It is a thriving, go-ahead place; the clubhouse is one of the best in India, and the residents are most hospitable. First-rate duck-shooting is to be had in the neighbourhood, also plenty of partridges, francolins, quail, and hares. Mr James, the Chief Commissioner of Sind, was away on circuit, but had most kindly made arrangements for our comfort, and deputed Colonel Crawford to look after us and show us all the sport he could, and to that gentleman we are indebted for a most delightful time and excellent sport.
Leaving Karachi by the night train, we reached
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KARACHI.
the banks of the Indus at daylight, where the Commissioner's steamer awaited us, and conveyed us, a party of four, seventy miles down the river, where the colonel was encamped. Numerous alligators were basking on the banks, and afforded us some pretty practice with the rifle, several being killed. Arriving at the rendezvous, we found camels awaiting to take us to the bungalow, which we reached in time for an evening's shoot, when we bagged some partridges and quail, and captured two little pigs out of a herd. The next day was devoted to duckshooting. Mounting our camels after breakfast, we arrived in due course at a large lagoon, covered in parts with long reeds, having open spaces between, with large trees standing in the water-a perfect sanctuary for wildfowl. Each gun or pair of guns was told off to a boat, in which were two natives. One poled in the stern, the other sat in the bows to retrieve. Soon the firing became general, and clouds of ducks rose from the swamp. Whenever a bird fell, overboard went the bowman to fetch it. The water was from knee- to waist-deep, and .many ducks were lost, as, if not dead, they dived and held on to the reeds under water, where it was difficult to get them. Even when dead they disappeared under the network of weeds, added to which many were stolen by eagles, which hovered overhead and pounced upon the slain. However, there was plenty for all, and the result of the day's sport was eighty-seven ducks of different sorts, mallard, pin-tail, spot-bills, shovellers, pochards of two kinds, widgeons, and teal. This, by the bye, is the only place where I have ever shot the mallard out of the British Isles, though I am aware they abound in Norway and other countries.
January 4 we devoted to general shooting, walking
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DUCK-SHOOTING.
the birds up in line-a very pretty and varied day's sport - our bag comprising 2 hares, 24 francolin, 111 snipe, 26 quail. The next two days were spent in the marshes, when we bagged 106 ducks the first day and 166 the second. The latter was the most sporting and enjoyable day I ever experienced. Hickley and I were in one boat, or rather " bolsa," as they call them in South America, made of rushes, J but quite water-tight, and most comfortable. The ducks kept getting up amongst the trees, and came over at a great pace, giving us splendid rocketing shots. We bagged sixty-six in our boat, of which forty were mallard, and not a bird was wasted, for the colonel had them put in hampers, and most kindly sent them down to the ship, where they were much appreciated. We lost at least 30 per cent, having no dog; but I doubt if a dog would have been of much use, as he could neither swim, by reason of the weeds, nor touch the ground. Our native retriever worked well, and gathered many birds which would otherwise have been lost, and the eagles took their share. In the evening we had some flight shooting, as the ducks returned to their feeding-grounds.
Our last day was devoted to general shooting, when 49 francolin, 90 snipe, 35 quail, 7 duck, and 2 hares were bagged, making a total of 527 head for five days' shooting. This bag, though good enough and sufficient to satisfy most sportsmen, by no means represents the capabilities of the country, and I have heard of 400 and 500 clucks being killed in one day in a good season.
Well content with our sport and the colonel's hospitality, we mounted our camels, and striking across country for the nearest railway station, we
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KARACHI.
took train and returned to Karachi, making up the grand total of our bag on the East Indian station to 4817 head.
On the eve of departure of any celebrity from India it is customary to give him a banquet at the Byculla or the yacht club, and what is called a good "shove off." Thus when Lord Roberts left for England we were able to assist at the function, and escorted the gallant and popular General to sea with a fleet of small craft - an attention, I have reason to believe, he greatly appreciated. Likewise on Lord Harris's departure we were delighted to do him honour. His Excellency was previously entertained by the members of the yacht club, on which occasion it devolved on me to return thanks for the Navy. The following verses appeared in a local paper a day or two afterwards:
THEIR UTILITY.
" What has always surprised me is the extraordinary ignorance or indifference to naval matters by the public in general all over the world . . . . When stationed in Scotland, it was part of my duty to visit the coastguard stations, on which occasions I had to appear in uniform. It was no uncommon thing for me to be taken for a railway guard." - H.E. Admiral Kennedy, at the yacht club dinner to Lord Harris.
" Sing hey, lads all, for a song of the sea,
And raise a cheer for our Royal Navee ;
Though I must say I never could see
That Royal Navee's utilitee.
'Tis the British custom old to extol our Navy bold,
And to rend the air with cheers for gallant Jack ;
But if I were just to show you how little people know
Of the Navy, you'd be taken quite aback.
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A BALL ON BOARD THE BOADICEA.
They imagine all our days pass in one ecstatic blaze
Of a-hoisting of our slacks and a-splicing the main brace;
And our morals they disparage, by asserting we've a marriage
With a pretty girl at every seaport place.
They can't tell a plain house-boat from a man-o'-war afloat,
And they think we all lie drunk about the street;
While they even find it hard to make out a railway guard
From the Admiral, in full dress, whom they meet.
They've a notion fixed that we, when we're cruising out at sea,
'Mid our duties dance a hornpipe all the day;
That we swallow tots of rum and then make creation hum,
And we really get no respite from our play.
But there's one thing that they know,-when they're threatened by the foe,
And we clear the decks for action, as we swing out on the tide
Then it's " God bless gallant Jack, and in safety bring him back!"
And - our usefulness gets somehow justified!
Sing hey, lads, then, for a song of the sea,
And raise a cheer for the Royal Navee !
When the broadsides fly, we can manage to see
That Royal Navee's utilitee.
" RASTEL."
Our last visit to Calcutta was celebrated by a ball on board the Boadicea to the Viceroy and Lady Lansdowne on the eve of their departure for England. The ship was moored alongside the Bund, and was beautifully decorated with palms and tropical flowers and lit up with electric light. All the élite of Calcutta were present, and everything went off successfully. Lord Lansdowne invited me to await the arrival of his successor, Lord Elgin ; so I remained behind after the Boadicea sailed for Trincomalee, and accompanied his Lordship and family in the Warren Hastings to Trinco, where they landed for an hour or so, and where I left them to pursue their homeward voyage.
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KARACHI.
The Boadicea's time having expired, she was ordered home to pay off, her place being taken by the Bonaventure, a smart cruiser, but quite unsuited for a flag-ship. The transfer was made at Aden, and it was with a sorrowful heart I watched my old flag-ship steam out of the harbour, taking away my shipmates, with whom I had been associated for close upon three years, and for whom I had a sincere regard. We returned to Colombo in the Bonaventure, and remained there till my relief was appointed, when we went to Bombay, and I turned over the command of the station to Admiral Drummond, and went home by mail-steamer.
What touched me most on leaving the station was the soldiers' farewell: a large party of them embarked on board one of the British India steamers and escorted us out to sea, cheering vociferously as long as we were within sight or hearing.
With the hauling down of my flag the last act in my official career closes. It may not be out of place to quote in conclusion the words of my favourite song :-
"I've braved the stormy ocean,
In foreign lands I've been,
To misfortune I've not been a stranger;
I've had my share of troubles,
Many curious sights I've seen,
But I've managed all right through the danger
The clouds they may gather,
The sky it may look black,
There's a sweet little cherub
Keeps watch for poor Jack;
So away with melancholy,
we'll all be gay and jolly;
Hurrah for the life of a sailor!"
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SWEDEN.
P.S.- In the meantime, as my services are not required, I am reduced to this-
Landverk, our Home in Sweden
The result-
An Evening's Catch of Trout
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