Cornelia Holland to her mother Emily G. Holland
Naples November 8, 1937
Dear Mother:
I don't remember just where I left off in our travels, but I think it was just after arriving at Florence -- we had a lovely time at Cousin Marie's -- in the mornings we went downtown sightseeing etc all on our own, came back for lunch and most every afternoon she either took or sent us in her car somewhere for a view of something -- she really is remarkably young for her age.
Tuesday Cousine Ernestine sent her car and chauffeur to take us up to the villa Egisto owned (the old Medici one -- the hunting lodge) above Florence and had the caretakers show us all over the place -- a lovely view and a most interesting house. It now belongs to Tecla I believe. Then went to Ernestine's apartment to see her. She really is feeble, can't get up or move about without help. I don't understand just what her trouble is, but it's a sort of creeping paralysis. She is very sweet and seemed so pleased to see me. Said she wasn't able to write much but hoped you would write her often as your letters gave her so much pleasure. Right now she isn't getting out, but I understand that sometimes she goes out in her auto for a little. Keeps a car and chauffeur, so she must use it some. Thursday afternoon she had her chauffeur drive us to an old monastery near Florence, but it was closed for some holiday, so we couldn't see inside, then by another road over a hill that gave a beautiful view of Florence, then a drive thru the park. She has quite an old open car and as the day was warm and lovely we enjoyed the ride very much.
On Friday Ernestine had us come for lunch. Marie said she loves company as she can't get about. Before lunch we went in a minute to see cousin Alice who sent word she wanted to see me tho she is still in bed and not able to do very much. I believe she is allowed to get up for about an hour each day -- she looked pretty in bed with a pink bed jacket and coverlet and really looked better than I expected to see her. Asked all about you, and wanted me particularly to tell you that she had entertained both her children and grandchildren with the story of how you as a child in New York when in their upper floor, threw a candy drop to the musicians who played in the street below, who picked it up expecting money.
Saturday afternoon, C[ousin]. Marie took us to the Antinori Villa near Florence, where Niccolo (Natalie's son) and his wife live. They weren't home, but we saw their baby, a darling little girl 14 months old. The house and grounds were lovely, a view way over the valley. It was an old villa which had been remodeled along the front part according to Egisto's plans, and all the family are very proud of its appearance.
We left Sunday and came to Naples for a couple of days. We are so spoiled by staying at Marie's that hotel food doesn't look good any more. She had most delicious food and beautifully served by a butler, lovely china, silver, etc. Also we each had a lovely room with bath for each. The maid brought breakfast to us in bed, and every time we took off a dress she grabbed it and pressed it, took our shoes every night and returned them cleaned and polished. She made some of my clothes which I was about ready to throw away look so nice I can now use them for best. Also, as far as I could see, C. Marie has about 7 or 8 servants, a housekeeper, three maids, butler, second man, cook, pantry boy, a part time gardener for her yard and a chauffeur, but everything in her house goes very smoothly. We had a very lovely time with her and felt very much at home with her, tho were we not used to being bowed to and waited on at every turn.
We arrived at Naples last night (Sunday) and this morning took the trip to Pompeii. I got a number of post cards showing streets, etc. there which I am saving to bring home. It was very interesting. Then for the afternoon took a trip up Vesuvius to the crater, first by trolley, then by cog wheel trolley, then by funicular, a car which is pulled up the last steep slope by cables. The day has been lovely and clear so we had a wonderful view, then with a guide walked across the bed of the old crater to where the red molten lava is still flowing. Very, very intereting to see as the new crater is quite active up a gentle way, and gave several nice roars and puffs and explosions for us. We could see the ashes and red fiery lava all around the edge. The old crater is very large, about 3 miles around, the guide said, but after the eruption in 1910 or 11 the new crater was formed just like a large mole hill on the floor of the old crater and very much small in diameter.
Tomorrow we plan to go on an all-day excursion to Capri. Next go to Rome for a couple of days, then to Genoa for the night, then to Nice for a day, then to Paris where we expect to be 4-5 days then sail on Nov. 22 which will put us home probably on Dec. 2 -- that is our present plan. Will write you more later as Carol is most anxious to go eat as we just heard the dinner gong. Hope everything at home is going OK. Love to everyone. I'm so glad Barbara is such a help to you. Tell her I thank her.
Love, Cornelia
[The infant child of Niccolo and Carlotta Antinori was Illaria; Piero would be born in the following year, and Lodovico in 1942]