There was
a return of some type of prosperity to The early
medieval merchants were peddlers who sold goods to towns and villages.
Merchants were sometimes simply wandering adventurers. They became
dealers,
employers and ship owners sending their carriers along a network of
trade
routes linking the major European cities. Ships from There
seems to have been an export trade in slaves. In the seventh century a
Northumbrian prisoner of war was sold to a Frisian merchant in In the
beginning a debt could be recorded on a tally stick. Notches were cut
into it
to record the amount, then the stick was split in two and each party
kept half.
When the debt was settled the tally was destroyed or kept as a record.
As time
went on merchants found they needed to keep more accurate accounts of
their
money and stock. As trading methods grew more complex, much more
paperwork was
needed. Merchants had to pay clerks and scribes to help them. There
were
letters giving details of business deals, bills of sale, orders,
contracts to
suppliers and documents promising payment. All of these had to be
signed and
marked with the wax seals of the merchants involved. Early
Anglo-Saxon pottery was crudely handmade, and not particularly
attractive.
Wheel-thrown pottery of a better quality was imported into Glass was
a rare and costly item that was likely to have been found only on the
tables of
the rich, and seldom outside of southeastern Not much
is known about iron mining in Anglo-Saxon England, but iron was used
for
weapons and farming tools. The more elaborately made swords with richly
decorated hilts, and ornamented helmets and coats of mail, were
expensive items
which belonged only to the aristocracy. The Anglo-Saxons themselves
were not
experts in the making of sword blades, but they were unrivaled in their
decorative metalwork, using gold, silver and bronze to produce
ornaments. This
metalwork is as good as the finest jewelry of any age and show great
technical
skill. The
Derbyshire lead mines were being worked during King Egbert’s time, but
whether
the Anglo-Saxons were able to extract silver from the lead, or whether
loot was
the main source of their supply of silver, is not known. Toward
the end of the reign of King Egbert came the beginning of an age just
as
violent as the age of the Anglo-Saxon invasion–the Viking invasion.
During the
interval between these two ages of invasion–the Anglo-Saxon and the
Viking–those who worked had recovered at least some of the wealth and
prosperity
lost to Clothing,
was made by households to meet their own needs. Flax was certainly
being grown
and woven into linen. Anglo-Saxon women were very skilled in the art of
weaving. Evidence that at least some English cloth was being sent
abroad in the
eighth century was mentioned in a letter that Charlemagne wrote to Offa
in 796.
It is also known that there was a strong trade in clothing,
particularly cloaks,
across the channel. There are
no complete written descriptions of clothing from "Next to his skin he had a linen shirt and linen
drawers;
and then long hose and a tunic edged with silk. He wore shoes on his
feet and
bands of cloth wound round his legs. In winter he protected his chest
and
shoulders with a jerkin made of otter skins or ermine. He wrapped
himself in a
blue cloak and always had a sword strapped to his side." Another
more detailed description: "The dress and equipment of the Old Franks was
as follows.
Their boots were gilded on the outside and decorated with leather laces
more
than four feet long. The wrappings round their legs were scarlet.
Underneath
these they wore linen garments on their legs and thighs of the same
color, but
with elaborate embroidery. Long leather thongs were cross-gartered over
these
wrappings and linen garments, in and out, in front and behind. Next
came a
white linen shirt, round which was buckled a sword-belt... The last
item of
their clothing was a cloak, either white or blue, in the shape of a
double
square. This as so arranged that, when it was placed over the
shoulders, it
reached to the feet in front and behind, but hardly came down to the
knees at
the side." While
both these descriptions are of the dress of wealthy men, the clothing
of poorer
people would have been similar, but less decorative or elaborate. This
would be
a good description of Anglo-Saxon dress of the day, although they
probably did
not wear the cross-gartering. Other indications of what people wore
come from
the art of the time, showing people from peasants to kings in their
daily
lives. From the
earliest times a cloak or cape was an important part of men’s clothing.
Anglo-Saxon cloaks were usually rectangular. Most of cloaks of the time
of King
Egbert reached from just below the waist to mid-calf. The cloak was
usually
fastened at the right shoulder with a disc brooch, although other types
of
fasteners may also have been used. Men’s
trousers were worn tight fitting. Some illustrations show figures
wearing only
close fitting knee-breeches, without a covering tunic. The head
covering might
have been a pointed cap or a conical helmet. A few hooded cloaks are
known,
however. There is evidence to suggest that men wore loin-cloths beneath
the
other clothing. They generally took the form of short, unbelted skirts
or linen
short. The tunic
of a man was worn belted or girdled at the waist with a full skirt
reaching to
just above the knee. The skirt, and sometimes the forearms, of the
tunic were
occasionally in a different color and texture to the body. It may be
that the
sleeves and skirt were made of a different material, or, a shorter
tunic was
worn over the longer one. Some of the tunics had plain, close-fitting
sleeves,
and other sleeves had a corrugated or pleated appearance. The
corrugated
appearance was made by having over-long, tight fitting sleeves, which
where
pushed back, wrinkling up on the forearm. Most of the tunics had a
round neck
opening for the head. The lower hem of the skirt was cut wide and
straight,
giving an inverted ‘U’ shape to the hem. Belts
must have been worn to hold up trousers and at the waist of the tunic. Although buckled belts were used, many belts
were leather or cloth tie belts. Small items such as knives and other
small
tools were worn at the belt, pouches are almost never shown. This is
probably
because the pouch was normally a simple drawstring bag worn attached to
the
trouser belt, so would be hidden by the tunic. There were decorated
purses with
stiffened flaps, which were generally worn on the hip or at the back of
the
belt. Some of these were highly decorated, and many had a firesteel,
which
would have been used to start fires, attached to them. In some cases a
small
knife was attached to the purse too. Aldhelm,
writing in the early eighth century criticizes the overly elaborate
clothing
worn by women in holy orders, and in the process gives a written
description of
women’s clothing: "...linen undershirts, a red or blue tunic, a
hood
and sleeves
with silk stripes or borders: the garments are encircled in dark red
furs; the
hair on their temples and forelocks are crimped with a curling iron;
dark grey
veils for the head yield to white and colored head-dresses which hang
down from
the grip of fillets as far as the ankles." An
Anglo-Saxon woman of the ninth century wore an ankle-length tunic or
overdress,
like a longer version of the man’s tunic, and often worn unbelted. It
would
generally have been made of wool, although linen may have been worn by
the
wealthy. These tunics usually had a round neck opening and cut very
wide. The
sleeves of the tunic were usually wide and reached either to just above
the
elbow, or to the mid-forearm, although some may have had tight fitting
wrist
length sleeves similar to those worn by men. Wealthy noblewomen could
have
added broad borders of embroidery or braid at the cuffs and hem of
these
dresses, and another broad band running from the neck to the hem at the
center
front. For extremely wealthy women the entire tunic may have been of
patterned
cloth or covered with embroidery. Beneath
the overdress the woman wore a plainer linen under-tunic or underdress.
This
dress was similar to the male tunic, with a round neck and sleeves that
were
tighter on the forearm, and reached to the wrist. These tunics would
have
generally been worn belted. They were of undyed linen, although a broad
decorative band of contrasting color cloth, braid, or embroidery was
often used
at the wrist. It seems that this dress may have been worn with a hooded
cloak
rather than the overdress. There is no evidence of women wearing
underwear or
leg coverings, but this does not mean that they were not worn. There is
almost
no evidence for women’s belts after the eighth century, and those items
which a
woman needed were carried in a bag with a shoulder-strap. Most
women seem to have worn semicircular, or perhaps triangular, capes or
shawls
which would rest on the shoulders, and be pulled up to cover the head
when
needed. Some included a hood, which might be pointed at the back.
Occasionally
these are shown fastened at the neck or with a pair of pins at the
shoulders,
or worn unfastened. Sometimes the ends were brought around the chest
and thrown
back over the shoulders. Headgear
for women was a close fitting cap, which sometimes left the hair at the
forehead and temples visible. For wealthier women this may have had a
padded or
rolled edge, and possibly striped or embroidered. Although this was
sometimes
worn on its own, it might also be covered by the hooded cloak and or a
veil.
This veil could be extremely colorful and large. The veil would
generally be
pinned to the cap, although it could also be fastened with fillets or
ribbons,
or pinned to the shoulders of the overdress or cape, perhaps using a
set of the
linked dress-pins. The veils were often made of fine linen or wool, and
could
be so fine as to be almost a gauze. There
does not seem to be any distinction made between men and women’s shoes
in this
period. Leather shoes were made by the ‘turn-shoe’ method, meaning the
sole and
upper were joined together inside out, and then turned. The typical
shoe was
ankle high, and fastened by a drawstring. Low “slippers” were also
worn. Some
shoes had a band of decorative stitching running from the ankle to the
toe. The many
combs found suggest that care of the hair was important, and the many
tweezers,
shears, etc. found show that personal grooming was also valued. The
only direct
evidence for the early Anglo-Saxons hair styles come from highly
stylized faces
and figures on jewelry. Luxuriant moustaches are suggested on some
faces, occasionally
with a beard, but most were clean shaven. Men’s hair was commonly worn
shoulder
length, collar length or shorter. Women’s hair was worn long (but not
necessarily uncut and un-styled), and sometimes loose but often
plaited. Some
representations show the hair drawn back from the face, presumably into
a plait
or pony-tail. It is uncertain whether a ponytail would be tied back
with some
kind of fastening, or whether it would be knotted. Some sculptures show
elegant
hairstyles and ringlets on women, and a pair of pony-tails fastened
behind each
ear have also been shown. The
Anglo-Saxon of King Egbert’s day loved
baths. Some castles had a special
room beside the kitchen where
the ladies might bathe sociably in parties. Hot water, sometimes with
perfume
or rose leaves, was brought to the lord in the bedchamber and poured
into a tub
shaped like a half-barrel and containing a stool, so that the occupant
could
sit and have a long soak. In the cities there were public baths, or
“stews” for
the common people Soap was
soft
without much
detergent power. Generally soap was made in the workshops of a manor,
of
accumulated mutton fat, wood ash or potash, and natural soda.
Laundresses might
also use a solution of lye and fuller's earth or white clay. They did
the
laundry usually by the side of a moving body of water, beating the
cloth with
wooden paddles. After the winter's freeze they would have a great
spring
washing. Shaving
was difficult, and painful, since the soap was inefficient and razors
looked
like carving knives, and perhaps were also used for that purpose. Even
hair-cutting would have been disagreeable. Scissors were of the
one-piece
squeeze type, similar to grass trimming shears; they must have really
pulled
the hair. Cleaning of teeth was generally done by rubbing them with a
green
hazel twig and wiping with a woolen cloth. Advances
in medicine were few during the Middle Ages. Clerics were more
interested in
curing the soul than the body. Physicians continued the church-approved
techniques of Galen and others that were saved in ornately decorated,
hand-copied manuscripts made by monks. Christian concern for the ill
and
injured, and contact with the Arab world during the crusades, led to
the
establishment of large hospitals built and run by monks. Although
attempts to
cure the patients were primitive in comparison to today, they were
usually well
fed and comforted. The average life expectancy of a person in
the Middle
Ages depended greatly on the social class
of the
individual, those in the higher classes living longer than a serf. In
general
people during King Egbert’s reign would have an average life span of 45
years. The lifespan of a peasant during this time was on average 27
years. Someone
in their sixties would be considered very elderly, even in the most
aristocratic level of society. King Egbert, who died at the age of
sixty-four,
apparently peacefully, would have been considered a very old man. Although
medicine and surgery were related, medieval practitioners drew a
distinct line
between them. Generally, physicians treated problems inside the body,
and
surgeons dealt with wounds, fractures, dislocations, urinary problems,
amputations, skin diseases, and syphilis. They also bled patients when
asked to
do so by physicians. Surgeons today can trace the start of their
specialties to
the teeth-pullers, bone-setters, oculists, and midwives of the Middle
Ages. During
the Middle Ages, medicine started to become a profession based upon
formal
education, standardized curriculum, and legal regulation. In some
places,
physicians were required to pass examinations before beginning
practice. Not
all healers were priests or scholars though. Women commonly treated
female
patients, and uneducated surgeons and self-taught lay doctors, or
“leeches,”
were permitted to work on both men and livestock. By
analyzing common herbals the medieval physicians used, there have been
found
recipes with therapeutic merit. Medieval medicine was not a forerunner
to
modern medicine, or a simplistic, primitive system. It was a very
learned
theory that made sense with the information medieval doctors had. Some
medieval
doctors and surgeons made written records, but the folklore medicine
tended to
have an oral tradition. During
the ninth century, the body showed a person’s state of health, and
doctors
relied on the exterior signs. While the body was known to degenerate
with age,
doctors believed that a healthy body required a state of harmony or
balance. An
unhealthy body represented an imbalance, usually identified through a
change or
sign on the outside of the body, either on the skin or from the bodily
fluids.
Thus the body becomes the symbolic text which a doctor needed to
interpret in
order to diagnosis and then to cure. Lacking
any concept of germs, viruses or bacteria as causes of illness,
medieval
doctors were left to reason that certain behaviors led to illness.
There were
three types of possible illnesses: those caused by the body's natural
degeneration,
those to which the body was predetermined, and those caused by
immoderate
living. While both medieval and modern medicine have a similar emphasis
on the
lifestyle causes of illness, medieval medicine's difference was in the
belief
that sins could cause illnesses. This relation between sins and
illnesses was
influenced by Christian ideas. These
medieval idea of disease and morality were considered literal truths.
If a
certain form of sin causes illness, then the only way to alleviate
illness is
to correct moral failings. Literature helped to inform people about the
consequences of sin in the hope that people would stop and in that way
help to
slow epidemic diseases which threatened society. There was a lot of
moral
literature during the years of the Bubonic Plague that was thought
caused by
the community’s sin of pride. All
illness was not considered to be connected to moral failings. Some
illnesses
were believed to occur naturally or as a result of old age.While
dysentery or gum disease certainly could have some moral connections,
leprosy and bubonic plague are two diseases which clearly fit the
morality
categories. Sin was seen as the cause of plague and was a collective
sin.
Individual sin was seldom seen as the cause of sickness, whether mental
illness
or physical. An exception was leprosy,
which
was associated with a variety of sins, but especially with lust, envy,
wrath,
simony, and pride. Like
hermits and monks, lepers were often called “pauperes Christi,” and the
strict
rules governing the conduct of leper houses were in part a reflection
of the
idea that lepers constituted a quasi-religious order. It was this
ambivalence
about their condition, as well as its physically revolting character,
that lent
extra merit to the practice of washing the sores and kissing the
lesions of
lepers which became a general, almost a fashionable, religious
exercise. One of
its enthusiasts was Henry I's wife Matilda, whose devotion on one
occasion
prompted a courtier to ask what the king's feelings would be if he knew
where
last her lips had been. The
connection between morality and illness was part of the Greco-Roman
medicine.
Galen unified two competing theories into one philosophy which became
the
foundation of medieval medicine. There was a notion of a microcosm and
macrocosm. The microcosm consisted of the four bodily humors:
blood, phlegm, black bile, and yellow bile. Each of the four humors
reflected
the elements of the macrocosm: air, water, earth, and fire,
respectively. The
humors also had temperature and moisture properties. Blood was hot and
wet,
phlegm was cold and wet, black bile was cold and dry, and yellow bile
was hot
and dry. When a person became sick, it was thought that one of the four
humors
was out of balance. To balance the humors, one needed to take a
prescription,
usually made from some combination of plants or animals. Doctors
categorized
all plants and animals by their temperature and moisture. Thus, if a
patient's
illness was caused by an imbalance of phlegm, which is cold and wet,
the
patient needed to counteract that humor with its opposite, yellow bile,
and
would need to take a prescription made from plants and animals that
were hot
and dry. By this theory, people are inherently connected to the natural
elements because these elements, not germs, influence health. |
Iron bracelets found at Wroughton The Hurbuck Hoard Medieval Technology Silver-gilt sword-pommel, inlaid with niello. One of the best survivng late Saxon pieces, dated from the late 8th to early 9th centuries. postcard of Offa, illustrates men's clothing of the time spearman's outfit 2 illustrations of women's dress example of a lady's headscarf Saxon lady as depicted on an early postcard types of shoes Anglo-Saxons were likely to wear, from an illustration Woodcut of the Daily Bath depiction of an Anglo-Saxon bathroom leaching the king cauterizing amputation © The British Library Board Old English Herbal by Apuleius, Canterbury Church, 11th century In center, the figure of Apuleius Platonicus holding two bunches of herbs, is presented with a large book by Esculapius, God of Medicine, and by Chiron, a centaur skilled in the uses of drugs.The green background is crowded in the top part with animal species, and filled with reptiles in the foreground. It is surrounded by a 'Winchester' type acanthus border. for larger image |
Historical Time Line The Making of Kings- Kingship, The Army and Warfare Events before King Egbert's Time- Beginning in Europe, The 7 Kingdoms and the Church, Lineage, Ancestors and Parentage The Life of King Egbert- The Early Years (775-802) The Kingship- Chronicle Excerpts, 802-824, 825-829, 830-839, Reasons for Success The People and Places Important to King Egbert - The People, The Places Society in King Egbert's Time- Part 1 (Government, Household, Allegiance, Finances) Part 2 (Great Hall, Cooking & Eating, Food, Feasts, Christmas) Part 3 (Crafts & Trade, Clothing and Appearance, Hygiene, Medicine) Part 4 (Peasants, Farming, Gardens & Plants, Common Tasks, Home, Village) Part 5 (Art) Sources and References |